Tuesday, April 28, 2009

The Rocks

The ultra sunny and warm weather arrived and even though Alex was at work, we found we could resist the sea no longer.  We loaded up our packs and headed down to the rocks, an eight minute walk from our flat.  Yes, there is a terrific swimming or "bathing" complex as well, but the rocks are our preference.  



I wish every child I have ever taught or known could experience a day at the sea on these rocks. One can be a pirate or a mermaid, dream big or think of nothing at all.  One can move from crevice to crevice, 



or claim one as his own,



and the sound that is created by the tide returning to the sea over these rocks is like nothing I have ever heard.  I think it could calm the most nervous of souls in approximately twenty seconds. Having only known the more quiet recession of the tide rushing over sand, I must say that the sound the rocks make with the sea has affected me. I can only hope never to forget it.

 

Zelle and Bishop were asked to pack snacks for the day, and this was what they decided was sufficient. 
 


I told them that their great grandfathers would approve, and truly, it was perfect until a group of college aged boys showed up with the same snack plus cold cerveja.  At that point, ours looked a little less festive and I considered trying out some Portuguese in hopes of a handout.  My children discouraged me, and I am glad that they were so wise, or perhaps it is called self conscious.  I would certainly have embarrassed us all on several accounts. 

The sea is still cold and a bit ominous.  



Bishop instinctively took baby steps if that tells you anything.  





Others, however, dove right in and we took notes.  There is a process.  It can be done, and it will be I can assure you.  For now, or at least until the water reaches a bit higher than 18 degrees celsius (that's about 65 degrees fahrenheit),



 we are happy to exist on the rocks.



Monday, April 20, 2009

Back in Madeira

As nice as Porto was, it was even better to return to Madeira, where we feel like we are starting to know our way around a bit, or at least know some things we like to do with some frequency. We all walk a lot, still: to language class twice a week in the center of town,



to see our new favorite dog,



to Lido by the sea where the bathing complex is becoming a popular destination for many



and where the basketball court continues to be a big attraction.  



I believe that Bishop has asked to go there every day since we have been back from spring break, even when he has practice at the gym.



On the weekends, we are still getting around and seeing the island outside the city.  We've been to the north side a couple of times where it is a little cooler and the sea is a bit more rugged.  In Sao Vicente we visited the caves,



and saw this chapel in a rock by a bridge near the sea.



Back on the southwest side of he island, nearer to home, we went to Cabo Girao, the largest cliff in Europe, and gazed around for awhile.



It was pretty sheer,



and I enjoyed staying away from the railing and taking pictures of the others.



This past weekend, we went to Canhas, where they were having a sugar cane festival. There was live music,


 
and plenty of food and drink.  They had vinho seco, which was described to me as Madeiran moonshine.  It is homemade wine that one can get most anywhere on the island outside of Funchal.  I'm no connossieur, but I'd say it tastes like gamey wine, if that makes sense.  It was quite good, and it tastes different depending on where you are.  This particular batch tasted like the oak barrels in which it had been stored.



These guys were minding the fire and cooking espetadas,



the wonderful and uniquely Madeiran dish of meat cooked on bay leaf skewers.



But it was not quite dinner time, so we pushed on westward to Jardim do Mar, which was very sunny and beautiful.  We parked near the square and walked toward the coast,



where there was a very nice boardwalk,



which eventually ended.  We had a moment's pause while we decided whether to go to Joe's Bar or continue down to the rocks.



The rocks won,



and from them, the sea was mesmerizing,



but the breeze, the conversation, and the view of Paul do Mar (to which we will return!)



kept some quite content to remain on the boardwalk.



We walked back up hill, toward the neighborhood, and noticed this plot of land for sale.



Not a bad view.



The neighborhood was connected entirely by sidewalks that snaked through a variety of plants, flowers, grape vines and banana trees.



It made for easy walking,



and exceptional views.



By now, we were hungry, so we headed to an old favorite, As Vides,



for espetada (as the seed had been planted earlier in the day at the festival).



I can't imagine there being better espetadas anywhere on the island, but I suspect we will investigate further over the coming weeks.  After dinner, the children taught each other some Portuguese and English,



and we snapped this picture of the deservedly proud chef and his kitchen.



On the way back home, Bishop said, "Just when you think you have seen all the beautiful of Madeira, it just keeps on coming."




Saturday, April 11, 2009

Porto (part 3)

On our third day in Porto, we decided to visit Viana do Castelo, to the north, to see our language teacher in Madeira.  She was visiting home for Easter and invited us for a day in her village. 



We met for lunch and she brought her cousin and daughter along.  We ate well and had a chance to talk about lots of things; international relations, regional cuisine and differences between the United States and Portugal.  Here, for instance we are discussing the different ways we count on our fingers.  In Portugal, one is the thumb, two the thumb and index finger, and three the thumb, index and middle.  I am demonstrating the way we 'say' three in America.



After yet another delicious meal, we headed outside to see some of Viana,



but it started raining, pretty hard,



and this changed our sight-seeing plans.  We were disappointed to board the train back to Porto so soon, but were grateful for the meal and the opportunity to meet friends.



We were warned that the weather would remain rainy, so after one last look out the bedroom window in he hotel, we hoped for the best and headed out for our final day in Porto.



A block down the street, we saw a little musical show to mark the hour.  It was an entertaining and auspicious beginning to our Good Friday.



With an eye toward the sky, and umbrellas tucked in our coats, we began a familiar walk and were very pleased to see more blue than anything else behind the Torre dos Clerigos.



We visited the famous bookstore from the same era as the Majestic Cafe and found it to be pretty fantastic.  I could have taken tons of pictures here, but we were all encouraged to take only one, so this is it, of the upstairs.



After plenty of browsing and gawking, we headed across the street 



and through the park to find the home of famed 19th century Porto poet, Almeida Garrett.  Unfortunately, it was closed, but we got a shot of the home's front, with a white cat in the window.



With the sky so unexpectedly clear and nice, we decided to go across the Douro River to have lunch and visit a Port house in Vila Nova de Gaia.  Along the way we saw this statue, which we had seen many times, and almost always with a gull perched atop the bespectacled priest.



Once we crossed the river, it wasn't too difficult to find a good meal, and after a couple of days, we learned to order half portions.  We asked for a small steak for Bishop, and this is what we got.



He was obviously pleased, and it is good to see him find his way around the menu, away from pao e manteiga.  My shrimp in beer sauce was also quite rewarding.

 

While we were eating it poured rain for about 30 minutes, but it stopped and cleared up for the rest of the afternoon.  Next, we went in search of the Niepoort facilty, upon the recommendation of a friend, but it was closed, 



so we visited Vasconcellos, one of only 4 Port houses entirely owned and run by a Portuguese family.  It was small and the tour was very personable and informative.



We were particularly impressed with the "finest" port in the house, from 1902, a very good year, kept in these barrels.  The designation 40+ years is the highest their labeling system goes, whether the port is 41 years old or 107, as in this case.



I suppose it is customary to say the best part of the tour is the tasting.  It was very nice indeed, and we tasted some whites and reds and then decided what we wanted to take with us.



Tasting can be serious business, even for a couple of novices like us.  We left with two bottles and look forward to educating ourselves further.



Outside, the weather was beautiful and we enjoyed the view of Porto.



I treated myself to a shave around the corner.  This is something I have always wanted to do, so when we walked past this very inviting barber shop, my family encouraged this indulgence.



Generally speaking, I hate to shave, and I only do so about once or twice a week.  This was the best shave I have ever had, and if I could afford this extravagance I would do it more often.  It was quite relaxing.



The barber was particularly fond of our kids (and their hair) and he coaxed Bishop into the chair and asked if he wanted a short or long cut.  Bishop answered, "Nao cut" and we were on our way.



Before crossing the Douro, we stopped for a couple of more pictures of the great city from this vantage point.





Before catching our late flight back to Funchal, we stopped in Majestic Cafe one final time.



I think Zelle found it an easy place to be,



and we all feel the same about Porto.  I wish we'd had more time, because there were still several things we wanted to do.  I guess we'll have to come back sometime and complete the list.