Queriamos voltar

Leaving Madeira was not fun.  Having been off the island for about two weeks, the thought of never returning seems an impossibility.  To go through a list of people and places and activities and routines that we miss would be boring for you and depressing for me, so I'll simply put some photos up, most of which we took while saying goodbye to someone or doing something for the last time.

The last Laranjada:

The last evening at our neighborhood pizzeria with our favorite waiters:

The last time hanging out with our friends from the basketball team:

The last dinner with friends from University.  I am wearing my gift, a peasant hat, in front of painting featuring same:

The first (and last) visit to Porto Santo; a long beach, but we still prefer the rocks around Funchal:

and Farrar's last shandy there:

The last walk to the CAB gym:

Bishop's last practice:

The last coffee with friends:

The last swim:

with the sound of those rocks:

The last dog:

The last park bench:

The last photo:

I have to believe that all of these "lasts" should include the qualifier, "for now" because there will be another time, a "next" as it were.

Saudade, y'all.

Last Flowers

Well, today marked a particularly sad moment when Zelle and I purchased our last flower arrangement in Madeira.   We took our sassy little white vase, my very first Madeiran purchase, to our neighborhood Loja de Flores and put together this pink number.

   

We are taking it tonight to our language teacher's house (yes we passed our exam thank goodness) where we will enjoy dinner with her family.   I am glad to be passing on such sentiment even though it makes me melancholy to think of days back home without that vase.  Why not ship it home to have it as a reminder of your time in Madeira you might ask? Well, thanks for asking because what a loaded question that has become.  

If you are trying to figure out these numbers, weights, and how that translates to duffle bags, then welcome to my next few days.  Now, Alex and I did not come here with the intentions of acquiring.  In fact, we have done everything in our power over the last two years to set things free.  Even here, we have found a connection to an organization for children in need and have passed on many clothes that our children have outgrown over the past few months.  The fact that our children have simultaneously experienced the largest growth spurts of their lives while living away from home and closets full of handed down clothes waiting for them to grow into would only happen to us.  Zelle, of course, has enjoyed this situation.  

While we have resisted such frivolous items like a coffee maker, a vegetable peeler, a baking dish to actually cook in, towels to take to the sea so we don't use our bath towels, a convenient grocery porter, regular sized soap (we are still working through mom's hotel supply), and two bottles of shampoo and conditioner instead of one that goes back and forth between each shower, there have been several purchases that we simply could not rough it any longer without...like this collection of fine European school supplies.

Those of you who know me well will not be surprised that pencils, notebooks, dividers, and all things small and bright that elicit organizational karma win me over every time. The idea that just one new little notebook or pencil pouch could possibly be the missing link to order and stability....well, we are going to have to make room.  Speaking of which, what does one do with this fantastic clay sculpture made by Bishop when he needed a toy and so industriously made his own fun?  Now this, I am really going to miss.

"Don't worry, he said (Zelle's missing headband and all) we can pack this one because it is in a book and doesn't take up much room."  Sweet little guy.

Just this week, the kids and I got a warning from Alex to stop making unnecessary and extravagant purchases so I am really glad that those pencils were already mine. It was also timely that the softest and most beautiful leather vest I have ever seen in my life was spotted just days before the curfew.

   

Okay, back to the shipping dilemma.  You see, we don't want to lug four hundred pencils and notebooks all over Italy.  To ship a small box of books is roughly forty euros.  To ship over 30 kilos, is around 300 euros.  Initially, I wasn't at all worried.  I told Alex that I didn't think we could possibly have much more than that to ship and that he would be surprised at how well we had done with not packing too much in the first place.  Look sweetheart, I'll start putting together all of the stuff we need to ship, and I bet it won't end up being more than just one of our duffles. You'll see.

Oops

Well, because we are fairly creative folks and engage in practical decision making at least once or twice a year, we looked into alternative shipping options.  Guess what?  There are these things called containers that one can purchase, and fill with whatever one wishes for a set price, and ship.  They are a bit pricey but not a whole lot more than what we are probably going to end up paying given that there is more than what you see featured in above photo.  The thing is that the containers are big enough to fit a car into.  Really, a CAR we asked?....do you see where I am going with this?  Remember that little Renault I keep chasing? 

I'm not getting too excited as the deal is far from closed and will likely not play out, but Mr. No Extravagance himself actually thought up this crazy plan. Madeira has been really good for him.

 

Dog Days

While we are trying to get used to the fact that our days here are numbered, we have been fairly busy enjoying all there is to do in Madeira.  On several occasions we have forgotten to bring the camera along, so unfortunately I do not have any photographs of the only bowling alley on the island.  I guess it means we are starting to feel more at home, more accustomed to our routines, and every outing doesn't feel like something we need to document.  Still, there are plenty of images piling up on the computer and I will try to get as many as I can into this post.

We continue to visit the rocks, where there has been a nice addition to the landscape.

And sometimes we see people of industry, not merely idling by the sea (like us), but working, like this guy who was collecting lapas, which are clam-like (and quite delicious) creatures attached to the rocks in the shallows.

While these rocks are for us often a destination, they are only one small area of the sea promenade that stretches along the western side of Funchal.  Just around the corner is a nice wharf for fishing.

Please note the noble and attentive dog.  They seem to be everywhere, like this other one relaxing at a nearby cafe.

A little further along the promenade there is access to a winding trail 

that provides additional sea views, this one including the seemingly ever-present Santa Maria.

Another familiar walk is the one from the flat to the CAB Madeira gym.  We found another great dog, who lives in a very nice house.

He kept a watchful eye on us as we passed; perhaps our accent confused him.

We also gaze at the futebol field everytime we walk home from the gym, and sometimes they are playing games.

Bishop's practice was recently rewarded with a little basketball tournament in Santana, which is on the north side of the island, and quite an expensive taxi. So, a friend loaned me his car, obviously against his better judgment, or maybe my wife's better judgment.  Whatever the case, I got behind the wheel for the first time in 4 months and zoomed along the via rapida.  And I do mean rapida.

The event in Santana was an outdoor venue that had a number of small courts on a brick patio.

It was truly a court designed (and laid out with masking tape) for the young and daring.

Bishop had a great time.

And then we cleaned up for an afternoon and evening with friends near Machico.  Zelle went to a birthday party and the rest of us knocked around the neighborhood while that was going on.  After visiting the sports park under the airport runway (sorry I left the camera in the car), we wound up in a tiny little bar and the kids decided to take a load off,

while we huddled around the cozy bar.

We were careful not to disturb the proprietor any more than we had to.  He was engaged in a game of Dominoes.

I could have stayed there all night I think,

because, the proprietor, when we disturbed him, was happy to share his home brew.  I have found that everywhere outside Funchal has vinho seco and other home made treats.  This one was made of fire water, honey and other herbs that I can't recall the names.  It tasted a bit like licorice.

But we had a daughter to catch up with and a party to make.  So after we slipped past the guard dog, we were on our way.

I like the way they do birthdays.  The kids have their time in the afternoon, and then the extended family joins in around dinner to continue the party.  I knew we were in good shape when we were welcomed in by an impressive and aged Basset Hound.

The after-party, so to speak, included a Portuguese version of "Happy Birthday."

Of course, kids are kids everywhere, and they played lots of games in the yard.

Notice the view, which includes the airport runway, quite the thrill for the little ones.  The sport of volley is also quite the thrill in Madeira, among the children.

A good time was had by all, and late in the evening, the music came out and some singing of traditional music ensued. 

Everyone slept in the next day.  No pictures.  I mentioned the party was near Machico, which is the 2nd largest city on the island.  It is east of Funchal and a legend has it that it was the first place that people reached.  It is a very nice spot, and we have been there a couple of times to relax.  There is a sea side park with exercise opportunities, for those so inclined.

Like many places on the island it is very scenic and easy going.  It is a nice place to hang out and enjoy friends,

and even make plans,

or just play in the sand (which is imported from northern Africa, I'm told).

The last time we were there, we also saw Farrar's favorite car.  Perhaps we will buy one when we come back to Madeira for longer than a semester.  One can dream.

The other familiar walk is that to our language school.

We find out Tuesday if we passed to the 2nd level.  Again, when we come back. The people at the language school are very nice, and I know we will miss the cafe on the top floor.  This is what I call a "teacher's lounge," for those of you paying attention to how we treat our educators.

Here's to a few more dog days of summer.

Pastel de nata

There is a particular pastry that has become an important part of our daily nutritional routine.  It is called pastel de nata.

Ironically, the pastry was the first "authentic to Portugal" treat that we experienced in Lisbon. Remember the picture of  Zelle and Bishop eating these on the sidewalk?  I'll remind you.

Among other things that we are having a hard time imagining life without, this pastry holds a place high on the list.  I think Bishop and Alex both eat them for breakfast every day.  On the days that Alex teaches, I'm pretty sure he has two or three.  So, in an effort to try and bring at least a version of this pastry home with us, I talked the owners of our favorite pastelaria into allowing me a peek into the pastel de nata process.   I left the kids in bed and snuck down one morning last week to check it all out.

 

Let me just say that the behind the scenes action was more than impressive.  

 

It is safe to say that I am used to feeling a bit like Lucille Ball in my own kitchen, so I was careful to remain in the background.  Pretty soon, though, I found myself pressing pastry into tin cups,

and stirring a large pot of pastel de nata concoction.  Unfortunately, I found out quickly that there really isn't a specific recipe.  Go figure.  I kept watching the owner add a bit of this and a bit of that, spooning some mixture out, tasting, and adjusting.  I was suddenly back in my grandmother's kitchen. Every now and then he'd ask me to identify an ingredient by smell and say, "You know, I don't know if you can get this just anywhere.  Have you ever seen this in the states? "  As I tried to take a few pictures, re-wash my hands, write directions down, and then cross a few things off to account for all the additions and adjustments, I  began to feel oddly irritated at the whole thing and a bit like Ethel instead of Lucy. Sensing my despair (and lack of practice with early morning rising), the owner's wife brought me my usual coffee preference, um garroto, and gave me the job of watching the ovens.

 

As I watched and smelled the pastries become glorious within tremendous convection ovens, my high hopes of ever recreating such a delicacy were dashed.  Still, I humored the owners with a proud photo of the morning's work,

and added pastel de nata to the long list of reasons to come back one day.

Bom Fim Semana

The weekends here in Madeira are filled with activity, especially as the spring turns to summer.  The flower festival was a big hit.  Preparations for the parade were ongoing, so each walk into town gave us the opportunity to see lots of flower displays,

some of which were intricately designed.  The tiled sidewalks were lined with these flower paintings (for lack of a better term) which were constructed by arranging many petals.

There were also orchids,

and birds (which Farrar continues to want to purchase...ai-yai-yai).

The parade itself was pretty cool.  There was some traditional dress on display,

and tons of people lining the streets to watch as the colorful floats passed.

and lots of cute children clad in floral garb.  Or maybe better to say the floral garb was clad with children.

So much sidewalk time and scenery can make the sea very attractive.  As the weather warms, the shore continues to be a welcome journey.  Such trips are becoming routine, and to borrow from an old expression, "you can never step into the same sea twice."  The last time we went we saw yet another candidate for 'best dog in Madeira'

The competition remains stiff, but this pooch has an unfair advantage as she reminded us of our own Rosie, who also loved the sea.  We also got a very close look at the Santa Maria,

and a lizard got a very close look at us.

There are lots of lizards on the rocks, but they are very well-behaved and there is plenty of room for all of us under the sun, which is intense.  The water is inviting, to say the least.  It is a tad chilly, and the toughest steps are the first ones,

but once you swim out a bit, the body adjusts,

and as ever, the sea is relaxing.

Well, very relaxing.

We have also recently enjoyed a graduation ceremony.  It made for a very fun day in Funchal that began in the cathedral,

which was very crowded.

Now, before you think I am now on permanent vacation, the graduation ceremony here is just that: a ceremony.  We still have another month of classes. Quite a contrast from American colleges and universities, where we are counting credits and running degree audits furiously, sometimes only hours before graduation.  I suspect that my friends in the registrar's office at Limestone will now entertain dreams of working in Madeira.  

But the day itself retains all the symbolic meaning and is a real celebration. After an additional ceremony in the square, which included walking across the stage and photographs, 

we went out to eat and had some Brazilian cocktails (the name of which I forget) and espetada and sangria.  It made for a long and enjoyable evening that even included some card games with dessert.

And finally, basketball season continues!  While I have not been able to see as much of the NBA playoffs as I would like, I have seen plenty of playoff action in Madeira.  The women's team unfortunately lost in the semis, but the men continue to play.  They have advanced to the semi finals, which means two more home games next weekend.  Go CAB Madeira!  100%

To all the Moms, Happy Mother's Day, and to all, bom fim semana!

The Rocks

The ultra sunny and warm weather arrived and even though Alex was at work, we found we could resist the sea no longer.  We loaded up our packs and headed down to the rocks, an eight minute walk from our flat.  Yes, there is a terrific swimming or "bathing" complex as well, but the rocks are our preference.  

I wish every child I have ever taught or known could experience a day at the sea on these rocks. One can be a pirate or a mermaid, dream big or think of nothing at all.  One can move from crevice to crevice, 

or claim one as his own,

and the sound that is created by the tide returning to the sea over these rocks is like nothing I have ever heard.  I think it could calm the most nervous of souls in approximately twenty seconds. Having only known the more quiet recession of the tide rushing over sand, I must say that the sound the rocks make with the sea has affected me. I can only hope never to forget it.

 

Zelle and Bishop were asked to pack snacks for the day, and this was what they decided was sufficient. 

 

I told them that their great grandfathers would approve, and truly, it was perfect until a group of college aged boys showed up with the same snack plus cold cerveja.  At that point, ours looked a little less festive and I considered trying out some Portuguese in hopes of a handout.  My children discouraged me, and I am glad that they were so wise, or perhaps it is called self conscious.  I would certainly have embarrassed us all on several accounts. 

The sea is still cold and a bit ominous.  

Bishop instinctively took baby steps if that tells you anything.  

Others, however, dove right in and we took notes.  There is a process.  It can be done, and it will be I can assure you.  For now, or at least until the water reaches a bit higher than 18 degrees celsius (that's about 65 degrees fahrenheit),

 we are happy to exist on the rocks.

Back in Madeira

As nice as Porto was, it was even better to return to Madeira, where we feel like we are starting to know our way around a bit, or at least know some things we like to do with some frequency. We all walk a lot, still: to language class twice a week in the center of town,

to see our new favorite dog,

to Lido by the sea where the bathing complex is becoming a popular destination for many

and where the basketball court continues to be a big attraction.  

I believe that Bishop has asked to go there every day since we have been back from spring break, even when he has practice at the gym.

On the weekends, we are still getting around and seeing the island outside the city.  We've been to the north side a couple of times where it is a little cooler and the sea is a bit more rugged.  In Sao Vicente we visited the caves,

and saw this chapel in a rock by a bridge near the sea.

Back on the southwest side of he island, nearer to home, we went to Cabo Girao, the largest cliff in Europe, and gazed around for awhile.

It was pretty sheer,

and I enjoyed staying away from the railing and taking pictures of the others.

This past weekend, we went to Canhas, where they were having a sugar cane festival. There was live music,

 

and plenty of food and drink.  They had vinho seco, which was described to me as Madeiran moonshine.  It is homemade wine that one can get most anywhere on the island outside of Funchal.  I'm no connossieur, but I'd say it tastes like gamey wine, if that makes sense.  It was quite good, and it tastes different depending on where you are.  This particular batch tasted like the oak barrels in which it had been stored.

These guys were minding the fire and cooking espetadas,

the wonderful and uniquely Madeiran dish of meat cooked on bay leaf skewers.

But it was not quite dinner time, so we pushed on westward to Jardim do Mar, which was very sunny and beautiful.  We parked near the square and walked toward the coast,

where there was a very nice boardwalk,

which eventually ended.  We had a moment's pause while we decided whether to go to Joe's Bar or continue down to the rocks.

The rocks won,

and from them, the sea was mesmerizing,

but the breeze, the conversation, and the view of Paul do Mar (to which we will return!)

kept some quite content to remain on the boardwalk.

We walked back up hill, toward the neighborhood, and noticed this plot of land for sale.

Not a bad view.

The neighborhood was connected entirely by sidewalks that snaked through a variety of plants, flowers, grape vines and banana trees.

It made for easy walking,

and exceptional views.

By now, we were hungry, so we headed to an old favorite, As Vides,

for espetada (as the seed had been planted earlier in the day at the festival).

I can't imagine there being better espetadas anywhere on the island, but I suspect we will investigate further over the coming weeks.  After dinner, the children taught each other some Portuguese and English,

and we snapped this picture of the deservedly proud chef and his kitchen.

On the way back home, Bishop said, "Just when you think you have seen all the beautiful of Madeira, it just keeps on coming."