Porto (part 3)

On our third day in Porto, we decided to visit Viana do Castelo, to the north, to see our language teacher in Madeira.  She was visiting home for Easter and invited us for a day in her village. 

We met for lunch and she brought her cousin and daughter along.  We ate well and had a chance to talk about lots of things; international relations, regional cuisine and differences between the United States and Portugal.  Here, for instance we are discussing the different ways we count on our fingers.  In Portugal, one is the thumb, two the thumb and index finger, and three the thumb, index and middle.  I am demonstrating the way we 'say' three in America.

After yet another delicious meal, we headed outside to see some of Viana,

but it started raining, pretty hard,

and this changed our sight-seeing plans.  We were disappointed to board the train back to Porto so soon, but were grateful for the meal and the opportunity to meet friends.

We were warned that the weather would remain rainy, so after one last look out the bedroom window in he hotel, we hoped for the best and headed out for our final day in Porto.

A block down the street, we saw a little musical show to mark the hour.  It was an entertaining and auspicious beginning to our Good Friday.

With an eye toward the sky, and umbrellas tucked in our coats, we began a familiar walk and were very pleased to see more blue than anything else behind the Torre dos Clerigos.

We visited the famous bookstore from the same era as the Majestic Cafe and found it to be pretty fantastic.  I could have taken tons of pictures here, but we were all encouraged to take only one, so this is it, of the upstairs.

After plenty of browsing and gawking, we headed across the street 

and through the park to find the home of famed 19th century Porto poet, Almeida Garrett.  Unfortunately, it was closed, but we got a shot of the home's front, with a white cat in the window.

With the sky so unexpectedly clear and nice, we decided to go across the Douro River to have lunch and visit a Port house in Vila Nova de Gaia.  Along the way we saw this statue, which we had seen many times, and almost always with a gull perched atop the bespectacled priest.

Once we crossed the river, it wasn't too difficult to find a good meal, and after a couple of days, we learned to order half portions.  We asked for a small steak for Bishop, and this is what we got.

He was obviously pleased, and it is good to see him find his way around the menu, away from pao e manteiga.  My shrimp in beer sauce was also quite rewarding.

 

While we were eating it poured rain for about 30 minutes, but it stopped and cleared up for the rest of the afternoon.  Next, we went in search of the Niepoort facilty, upon the recommendation of a friend, but it was closed, 

so we visited Vasconcellos, one of only 4 Port houses entirely owned and run by a Portuguese family.  It was small and the tour was very personable and informative.

We were particularly impressed with the "finest" port in the house, from 1902, a very good year, kept in these barrels.  The designation 40+ years is the highest their labeling system goes, whether the port is 41 years old or 107, as in this case.

I suppose it is customary to say the best part of the tour is the tasting.  It was very nice indeed, and we tasted some whites and reds and then decided what we wanted to take with us.

Tasting can be serious business, even for a couple of novices like us.  We left with two bottles and look forward to educating ourselves further.

Outside, the weather was beautiful and we enjoyed the view of Porto.

I treated myself to a shave around the corner.  This is something I have always wanted to do, so when we walked past this very inviting barber shop, my family encouraged this indulgence.

Generally speaking, I hate to shave, and I only do so about once or twice a week.  This was the best shave I have ever had, and if I could afford this extravagance I would do it more often.  It was quite relaxing.

The barber was particularly fond of our kids (and their hair) and he coaxed Bishop into the chair and asked if he wanted a short or long cut.  Bishop answered, "Nao cut" and we were on our way.

Before crossing the Douro, we stopped for a couple of more pictures of the great city from this vantage point.

Before catching our late flight back to Funchal, we stopped in Majestic Cafe one final time.

I think Zelle found it an easy place to be,

and we all feel the same about Porto.  I wish we'd had more time, because there were still several things we wanted to do.  I guess we'll have to come back sometime and complete the list.