Pastel de nata

There is a particular pastry that has become an important part of our daily nutritional routine.  It is called pastel de nata.

Ironically, the pastry was the first "authentic to Portugal" treat that we experienced in Lisbon. Remember the picture of  Zelle and Bishop eating these on the sidewalk?  I'll remind you.

Among other things that we are having a hard time imagining life without, this pastry holds a place high on the list.  I think Bishop and Alex both eat them for breakfast every day.  On the days that Alex teaches, I'm pretty sure he has two or three.  So, in an effort to try and bring at least a version of this pastry home with us, I talked the owners of our favorite pastelaria into allowing me a peek into the pastel de nata process.   I left the kids in bed and snuck down one morning last week to check it all out.

 

Let me just say that the behind the scenes action was more than impressive.  

 

It is safe to say that I am used to feeling a bit like Lucille Ball in my own kitchen, so I was careful to remain in the background.  Pretty soon, though, I found myself pressing pastry into tin cups,

and stirring a large pot of pastel de nata concoction.  Unfortunately, I found out quickly that there really isn't a specific recipe.  Go figure.  I kept watching the owner add a bit of this and a bit of that, spooning some mixture out, tasting, and adjusting.  I was suddenly back in my grandmother's kitchen. Every now and then he'd ask me to identify an ingredient by smell and say, "You know, I don't know if you can get this just anywhere.  Have you ever seen this in the states? "  As I tried to take a few pictures, re-wash my hands, write directions down, and then cross a few things off to account for all the additions and adjustments, I  began to feel oddly irritated at the whole thing and a bit like Ethel instead of Lucy. Sensing my despair (and lack of practice with early morning rising), the owner's wife brought me my usual coffee preference, um garroto, and gave me the job of watching the ovens.

 

As I watched and smelled the pastries become glorious within tremendous convection ovens, my high hopes of ever recreating such a delicacy were dashed.  Still, I humored the owners with a proud photo of the morning's work,

and added pastel de nata to the long list of reasons to come back one day.

Bom Fim Semana

The weekends here in Madeira are filled with activity, especially as the spring turns to summer.  The flower festival was a big hit.  Preparations for the parade were ongoing, so each walk into town gave us the opportunity to see lots of flower displays,

some of which were intricately designed.  The tiled sidewalks were lined with these flower paintings (for lack of a better term) which were constructed by arranging many petals.

There were also orchids,

and birds (which Farrar continues to want to purchase...ai-yai-yai).

The parade itself was pretty cool.  There was some traditional dress on display,

and tons of people lining the streets to watch as the colorful floats passed.

and lots of cute children clad in floral garb.  Or maybe better to say the floral garb was clad with children.

So much sidewalk time and scenery can make the sea very attractive.  As the weather warms, the shore continues to be a welcome journey.  Such trips are becoming routine, and to borrow from an old expression, "you can never step into the same sea twice."  The last time we went we saw yet another candidate for 'best dog in Madeira'

The competition remains stiff, but this pooch has an unfair advantage as she reminded us of our own Rosie, who also loved the sea.  We also got a very close look at the Santa Maria,

and a lizard got a very close look at us.

There are lots of lizards on the rocks, but they are very well-behaved and there is plenty of room for all of us under the sun, which is intense.  The water is inviting, to say the least.  It is a tad chilly, and the toughest steps are the first ones,

but once you swim out a bit, the body adjusts,

and as ever, the sea is relaxing.

Well, very relaxing.

We have also recently enjoyed a graduation ceremony.  It made for a very fun day in Funchal that began in the cathedral,

which was very crowded.

Now, before you think I am now on permanent vacation, the graduation ceremony here is just that: a ceremony.  We still have another month of classes. Quite a contrast from American colleges and universities, where we are counting credits and running degree audits furiously, sometimes only hours before graduation.  I suspect that my friends in the registrar's office at Limestone will now entertain dreams of working in Madeira.  

But the day itself retains all the symbolic meaning and is a real celebration. After an additional ceremony in the square, which included walking across the stage and photographs, 

we went out to eat and had some Brazilian cocktails (the name of which I forget) and espetada and sangria.  It made for a long and enjoyable evening that even included some card games with dessert.

And finally, basketball season continues!  While I have not been able to see as much of the NBA playoffs as I would like, I have seen plenty of playoff action in Madeira.  The women's team unfortunately lost in the semis, but the men continue to play.  They have advanced to the semi finals, which means two more home games next weekend.  Go CAB Madeira!  100%

To all the Moms, Happy Mother's Day, and to all, bom fim semana!

The Rocks

The ultra sunny and warm weather arrived and even though Alex was at work, we found we could resist the sea no longer.  We loaded up our packs and headed down to the rocks, an eight minute walk from our flat.  Yes, there is a terrific swimming or "bathing" complex as well, but the rocks are our preference.  

I wish every child I have ever taught or known could experience a day at the sea on these rocks. One can be a pirate or a mermaid, dream big or think of nothing at all.  One can move from crevice to crevice, 

or claim one as his own,

and the sound that is created by the tide returning to the sea over these rocks is like nothing I have ever heard.  I think it could calm the most nervous of souls in approximately twenty seconds. Having only known the more quiet recession of the tide rushing over sand, I must say that the sound the rocks make with the sea has affected me. I can only hope never to forget it.

 

Zelle and Bishop were asked to pack snacks for the day, and this was what they decided was sufficient. 

 

I told them that their great grandfathers would approve, and truly, it was perfect until a group of college aged boys showed up with the same snack plus cold cerveja.  At that point, ours looked a little less festive and I considered trying out some Portuguese in hopes of a handout.  My children discouraged me, and I am glad that they were so wise, or perhaps it is called self conscious.  I would certainly have embarrassed us all on several accounts. 

The sea is still cold and a bit ominous.  

Bishop instinctively took baby steps if that tells you anything.  

Others, however, dove right in and we took notes.  There is a process.  It can be done, and it will be I can assure you.  For now, or at least until the water reaches a bit higher than 18 degrees celsius (that's about 65 degrees fahrenheit),

 we are happy to exist on the rocks.

Back in Madeira

As nice as Porto was, it was even better to return to Madeira, where we feel like we are starting to know our way around a bit, or at least know some things we like to do with some frequency. We all walk a lot, still: to language class twice a week in the center of town,

to see our new favorite dog,

to Lido by the sea where the bathing complex is becoming a popular destination for many

and where the basketball court continues to be a big attraction.  

I believe that Bishop has asked to go there every day since we have been back from spring break, even when he has practice at the gym.

On the weekends, we are still getting around and seeing the island outside the city.  We've been to the north side a couple of times where it is a little cooler and the sea is a bit more rugged.  In Sao Vicente we visited the caves,

and saw this chapel in a rock by a bridge near the sea.

Back on the southwest side of he island, nearer to home, we went to Cabo Girao, the largest cliff in Europe, and gazed around for awhile.

It was pretty sheer,

and I enjoyed staying away from the railing and taking pictures of the others.

This past weekend, we went to Canhas, where they were having a sugar cane festival. There was live music,

 

and plenty of food and drink.  They had vinho seco, which was described to me as Madeiran moonshine.  It is homemade wine that one can get most anywhere on the island outside of Funchal.  I'm no connossieur, but I'd say it tastes like gamey wine, if that makes sense.  It was quite good, and it tastes different depending on where you are.  This particular batch tasted like the oak barrels in which it had been stored.

These guys were minding the fire and cooking espetadas,

the wonderful and uniquely Madeiran dish of meat cooked on bay leaf skewers.

But it was not quite dinner time, so we pushed on westward to Jardim do Mar, which was very sunny and beautiful.  We parked near the square and walked toward the coast,

where there was a very nice boardwalk,

which eventually ended.  We had a moment's pause while we decided whether to go to Joe's Bar or continue down to the rocks.

The rocks won,

and from them, the sea was mesmerizing,

but the breeze, the conversation, and the view of Paul do Mar (to which we will return!)

kept some quite content to remain on the boardwalk.

We walked back up hill, toward the neighborhood, and noticed this plot of land for sale.

Not a bad view.

The neighborhood was connected entirely by sidewalks that snaked through a variety of plants, flowers, grape vines and banana trees.

It made for easy walking,

and exceptional views.

By now, we were hungry, so we headed to an old favorite, As Vides,

for espetada (as the seed had been planted earlier in the day at the festival).

I can't imagine there being better espetadas anywhere on the island, but I suspect we will investigate further over the coming weeks.  After dinner, the children taught each other some Portuguese and English,

and we snapped this picture of the deservedly proud chef and his kitchen.

On the way back home, Bishop said, "Just when you think you have seen all the beautiful of Madeira, it just keeps on coming."