Richardsons in Madeira

Queriamos voltar

2009-06-21T07:33:00.000-07:00

Leaving Madeira was not fun. Having been off the island for about two weeks, the thought of never returning seems an impossibility. To go through a list of people and places and activities and routines that we miss would be boring for you and depressing for me, so I'll simply put some photos up, most of which we took while saying goodbye to someone or doing something for the last time.

The last Laranjada:

The last evening at our neighborhood pizzeria with our favorite waiters:

The last time hanging out with our friends from the basketball team:

The last dinner with friends from University. I am wearing my gift, a peasant hat, in front of painting featuring same:

The first (and last) visit to Porto Santo; a long beach, but we still prefer the rocks around Funchal:

and Farrar's last shandy there:

The last walk to the CAB gym:

Bishop's last practice:

The last coffee with friends:

The last swim:

with the sound of those rocks:

The last dog:

The last park bench:

The last photo:

I have to believe that all of these "lasts" should include the qualifier, "for now" because there will be another time, a "next" as it were.

Saudade, y'all.

Last Flowers

2009-05-30T08:02:00.000-07:00

Well, today marked a particularly sad moment when Zelle and I purchased our last flower arrangement in Madeira. We took our sassy little white vase, my very first Madeiran purchase, to our neighborhood Loja de Flores and put together this pink number.

We are taking it tonight to our language teacher's house (yes we passed our exam thank goodness) where we will enjoy dinner with her family. I am glad to be passing on such sentiment even though it makes me melancholy to think of days back home without that vase. Why not ship it home to have it as a reminder of your time in Madeira you might ask? Well, thanks for asking because what a loaded question that has become.

If you are trying to figure out these numbers, weights, and how that translates to duffle bags, then welcome to my next few days. Now, Alex and I did not come here with the intentions of acquiring. In fact, we have done everything in our power over the last two years to set things free. Even here, we have found a connection to an organization for children in need and have passed on many clothes that our children have outgrown over the past few months. The fact that our children have simultaneously experienced the largest growth spurts of their lives while living away from home and closets full of handed down clothes waiting for them to grow into would only happen to us. Zelle, of course, has enjoyed this situation.

While we have resisted such frivolous items like a coffee maker, a vegetable peeler, a baking dish to actually cook in, towels to take to the sea so we don't use our bath towels, a convenient grocery porter, regular sized soap (we are still working through mom's hotel supply), and two bottles of shampoo and conditioner instead of one that goes back and forth between each shower, there have been several purchases that we simply could not rough it any longer without...like this collection of fine European school supplies.

Those of you who know me well will not be surprised that pencils, notebooks, dividers, and all things small and bright that elicit organizational karma win me over every time. The idea that just one new little notebook or pencil pouch could possibly be the missing link to order and stability....well, we are going to have to make room. Speaking of which, what does one do with this fantastic clay sculpture made by Bishop when he needed a toy and so industriously made his own fun? Now this, I am really going to miss.

"Don't worry, he said (Zelle's missing headband and all) we can pack this one because it is in a book and doesn't take up much room." Sweet little guy.

Just this week, the kids and I got a warning from Alex to stop making unnecessary and extravagant purchases so I am really glad that those pencils were already mine. It was also timely that the softest and most beautiful leather vest I have ever seen in my life was spotted just days before the curfew.

Okay, back to the shipping dilemma. You see, we don't want to lug four hundred pencils and notebooks all over Italy. To ship a small box of books is roughly forty euros. To ship over 30 kilos, is around 300 euros. Initially, I wasn't at all worried. I told Alex that I didn't think we could possibly have much more than that to ship and that he would be surprised at how well we had done with not packing too much in the first place. Look sweetheart, I'll start putting together all of the stuff we need to ship, and I bet it won't end up being more than just one of our duffles. You'll see.

Oops

Well, because we are fairly creative folks and engage in practical decision making at least once or twice a year, we looked into alternative shipping options. Guess what? There are these things called containers that one can purchase, and fill with whatever one wishes for a set price, and ship. They are a bit pricey but not a whole lot more than what we are probably going to end up paying given that there is more than what you see featured in above photo. The thing is that the containers are big enough to fit a car into. Really, a CAR we asked?....do you see where I am going with this? Remember that little Renault I keep chasing?

I'm not getting too excited as the deal is far from closed and will likely not play out, but Mr. No Extravagance himself actually thought up this crazy plan. Madeira has been really good for him.

Dog Days

2009-05-25T10:42:00.001-07:00

While we are trying to get used to the fact that our days here are numbered, we have been fairly busy enjoying all there is to do in Madeira. On several occasions we have forgotten to bring the camera along, so unfortunately I do not have any photographs of the only bowling alley on the island. I guess it means we are starting to feel more at home, more accustomed to our routines, and every outing doesn't feel like something we need to document. Still, there are plenty of images piling up on the computer and I will try to get as many as I can into this post.

We continue to visit the rocks, where there has been a nice addition to the landscape.

And sometimes we see people of industry, not merely idling by the sea (like us), but working, like this guy who was collecting lapas, which are clam-like (and quite delicious) creatures attached to the rocks in the shallows.

While these rocks are for us often a destination, they are only one small area of the sea promenade that stretches along the western side of Funchal. Just around the corner is a nice wharf for fishing.

Please note the noble and attentive dog. They seem to be everywhere, like this other one relaxing at a nearby cafe.

A little further along the promenade there is access to a winding trail

that provides additional sea views, this one including the seemingly ever-present Santa Maria.

Another familiar walk is the one from the flat to the CAB Madeira gym. We found another great dog, who lives in a very nice house.

He kept a watchful eye on us as we passed; perhaps our accent confused him.

We also gaze at the futebol field everytime we walk home from the gym, and sometimes they are playing games.

Bishop's practice was recently rewarded with a little basketball tournament in Santana, which is on the north side of the island, and quite an expensive taxi. So, a friend loaned me his car, obviously against his better judgment, or maybe my wife's better judgment. Whatever the case, I got behind the wheel for the first time in 4 months and zoomed along the via rapida. And I do mean rapida.

The event in Santana was an outdoor venue that had a number of small courts on a brick patio.

It was truly a court designed (and laid out with masking tape) for the young and daring.

Bishop had a great time.

And then we cleaned up for an afternoon and evening with friends near Machico. Zelle went to a birthday party and the rest of us knocked around the neighborhood while that was going on. After visiting the sports park under the airport runway (sorry I left the camera in the car), we wound up in a tiny little bar and the kids decided to take a load off,

while we huddled around the cozy bar.

We were careful not to disturb the proprietor any more than we had to. He was engaged in a game of Dominoes.

I could have stayed there all night I think,

because, the proprietor, when we disturbed him, was happy to share his home brew. I have found that everywhere outside Funchal has vinho seco and other home made treats. This one was made of fire water, honey and other herbs that I can't recall the names. It tasted a bit like licorice.

But we had a daughter to catch up with and a party to make. So after we slipped past the guard dog, we were on our way.

I like the way they do birthdays. The kids have their time in the afternoon, and then the extended family joins in around dinner to continue the party. I knew we were in good shape when we were welcomed in by an impressive and aged Basset Hound.

The after-party, so to speak, included a Portuguese version of "Happy Birthday."

Of course, kids are kids everywhere, and they played lots of games in the yard.

Notice the view, which includes the airport runway, quite the thrill for the little ones. The sport of volley is also quite the thrill in Madeira, among the children.

A good time was had by all, and late in the evening, the music came out and some singing of traditional music ensued.

Everyone slept in the next day. No pictures. I mentioned the party was near Machico, which is the 2nd largest city on the island. It is east of Funchal and a legend has it that it was the first place that people reached. It is a very nice spot, and we have been there a couple of times to relax. There is a sea side park with exercise opportunities, for those so inclined.

Like many places on the island it is very scenic and easy going. It is a nice place to hang out and enjoy friends,

and even make plans,

or just play in the sand (which is imported from northern Africa, I'm told).

The last time we were there, we also saw Farrar's favorite car. Perhaps we will buy one when we come back to Madeira for longer than a semester. One can dream.

The other familiar walk is that to our language school.

We find out Tuesday if we passed to the 2nd level. Again, when we come back. The people at the language school are very nice, and I know we will miss the cafe on the top floor. This is what I call a "teacher's lounge," for those of you paying attention to how we treat our educators.

Here's to a few more dog days of summer.

Pastel de nata

2009-05-15T13:52:00.000-07:00

There is a particular pastry that has become an important part of our daily nutritional routine. It is called pastel de nata.

Ironically, the pastry was the first "authentic to Portugal" treat that we experienced in Lisbon. Remember the picture of Zelle and Bishop eating these on the sidewalk? I'll remind you.

Among other things that we are having a hard time imagining life without, this pastry holds a place high on the list. I think Bishop and Alex both eat them for breakfast every day. On the days that Alex teaches, I'm pretty sure he has two or three. So, in an effort to try and bring at least a version of this pastry home with us, I talked the owners of our favorite pastelaria into allowing me a peek into the pastel de nata process. I left the kids in bed and snuck down one morning last week to check it all out.

Let me just say that the behind the scenes action was more than impressive.

It is safe to say that I am used to feeling a bit like Lucille Ball in my own kitchen, so I was careful to remain in the background. Pretty soon, though, I found myself pressing pastry into tin cups,

and stirring a large pot of pastel de nata concoction. Unfortunately, I found out quickly that there really isn't a specific recipe. Go figure. I kept watching the owner add a bit of this and a bit of that, spooning some mixture out, tasting, and adjusting. I was suddenly back in my grandmother's kitchen. Every now and then he'd ask me to identify an ingredient by smell and say, "You know, I don't know if you can get this just anywhere. Have you ever seen this in the states? " As I tried to take a few pictures, re-wash my hands, write directions down, and then cross a few things off to account for all the additions and adjustments, I began to feel oddly irritated at the whole thing and a bit like Ethel instead of Lucy. Sensing my despair (and lack of practice with early morning rising), the owner's wife brought me my usual coffee preference, um garroto, and gave me the job of watching the ovens.

As I watched and smelled the pastries become glorious within tremendous convection ovens, my high hopes of ever recreating such a delicacy were dashed. Still, I humored the owners with a proud photo of the morning's work,

and added pastel de nata to the long list of reasons to come back one day.

Bom Fim Semana

2009-05-10T05:20:00.000-07:00

The weekends here in Madeira are filled with activity, especially as the spring turns to summer. The flower festival was a big hit. Preparations for the parade were ongoing, so each walk into town gave us the opportunity to see lots of flower displays,

some of which were intricately designed. The tiled sidewalks were lined with these flower paintings (for lack of a better term) which were constructed by arranging many petals.

There were also orchids,

and birds (which Farrar continues to want to purchase...ai-yai-yai).

The parade itself was pretty cool. There was some traditional dress on display,

and tons of people lining the streets to watch as the colorful floats passed.

and lots of cute children clad in floral garb. Or maybe better to say the floral garb was clad with children.

So much sidewalk time and scenery can make the sea very attractive. As the weather warms, the shore continues to be a welcome journey. Such trips are becoming routine, and to borrow from an old expression, "you can never step into the same sea twice." The last time we went we saw yet another candidate for 'best dog in Madeira'

The competition remains stiff, but this pooch has an unfair advantage as she reminded us of our own Rosie, who also loved the sea. We also got a very close look at the Santa Maria,

and a lizard got a very close look at us.

There are lots of lizards on the rocks, but they are very well-behaved and there is plenty of room for all of us under the sun, which is intense. The water is inviting, to say the least. It is a tad chilly, and the toughest steps are the first ones,

but once you swim out a bit, the body adjusts,

and as ever, the sea is relaxing.

Well, very relaxing.

We have also recently enjoyed a graduation ceremony. It made for a very fun day in Funchal that began in the cathedral,

which was very crowded.

Now, before you think I am now on permanent vacation, the graduation ceremony here is just that: a ceremony. We still have another month of classes. Quite a contrast from American colleges and universities, where we are counting credits and running degree audits furiously, sometimes only hours before graduation. I suspect that my friends in the registrar's office at Limestone will now entertain dreams of working in Madeira.

But the day itself retains all the symbolic meaning and is a real celebration. After an additional ceremony in the square, which included walking across the stage and photographs,

we went out to eat and had some Brazilian cocktails (the name of which I forget) and espetada and sangria. It made for a long and enjoyable evening that even included some card games with dessert.

And finally, basketball season continues! While I have not been able to see as much of the NBA playoffs as I would like, I have seen plenty of playoff action in Madeira. The women's team unfortunately lost in the semis, but the men continue to play. They have advanced to the semi finals, which means two more home games next weekend. Go CAB Madeira! 100%

To all the Moms, Happy Mother's Day, and to all, bom fim semana!

The Rocks

2009-04-28T13:05:00.000-07:00

The ultra sunny and warm weather arrived and even though Alex was at work, we found we could resist the sea no longer. We loaded up our packs and headed down to the rocks, an eight minute walk from our flat. Yes, there is a terrific swimming or "bathing" complex as well, but the rocks are our preference.

I wish every child I have ever taught or known could experience a day at the sea on these rocks. One can be a pirate or a mermaid, dream big or think of nothing at all. One can move from crevice to crevice,

or claim one as his own,

and the sound that is created by the tide returning to the sea over these rocks is like nothing I have ever heard. I think it could calm the most nervous of souls in approximately twenty seconds. Having only known the more quiet recession of the tide rushing over sand, I must say that the sound the rocks make with the sea has affected me. I can only hope never to forget it.

Zelle and Bishop were asked to pack snacks for the day, and this was what they decided was sufficient.

I told them that their great grandfathers would approve, and truly, it was perfect until a group of college aged boys showed up with the same snack plus cold cerveja. At that point, ours looked a little less festive and I considered trying out some Portuguese in hopes of a handout. My children discouraged me, and I am glad that they were so wise, or perhaps it is called self conscious. I would certainly have embarrassed us all on several accounts.

The sea is still cold and a bit ominous.

Bishop instinctively took baby steps if that tells you anything.

Others, however, dove right in and we took notes. There is a process. It can be done, and it will be I can assure you. For now, or at least until the water reaches a bit higher than 18 degrees celsius (that's about 65 degrees fahrenheit),

we are happy to exist on the rocks.

Back in Madeira

2009-04-20T13:33:00.000-07:00

As nice as Porto was, it was even better to return to Madeira, where we feel like we are starting to know our way around a bit, or at least know some things we like to do with some frequency. We all walk a lot, still: to language class twice a week in the center of town,

to see our new favorite dog,

to Lido by the sea where the bathing complex is becoming a popular destination for many

and where the basketball court continues to be a big attraction.

I believe that Bishop has asked to go there every day since we have been back from spring break, even when he has practice at the gym.

On the weekends, we are still getting around and seeing the island outside the city. We've been to the north side a couple of times where it is a little cooler and the sea is a bit more rugged. In Sao Vicente we visited the caves,

and saw this chapel in a rock by a bridge near the sea.

Back on the southwest side of he island, nearer to home, we went to Cabo Girao, the largest cliff in Europe, and gazed around for awhile.

It was pretty sheer,

and I enjoyed staying away from the railing and taking pictures of the others.

This past weekend, we went to Canhas, where they were having a sugar cane festival. There was live music,

and plenty of food and drink. They had vinho seco, which was described to me as Madeiran moonshine. It is homemade wine that one can get most anywhere on the island outside of Funchal. I'm no connossieur, but I'd say it tastes like gamey wine, if that makes sense. It was quite good, and it tastes different depending on where you are. This particular batch tasted like the oak barrels in which it had been stored.

These guys were minding the fire and cooking espetadas,

the wonderful and uniquely Madeiran dish of meat cooked on bay leaf skewers.

But it was not quite dinner time, so we pushed on westward to Jardim do Mar, which was very sunny and beautiful. We parked near the square and walked toward the coast,

where there was a very nice boardwalk,

which eventually ended. We had a moment's pause while we decided whether to go to Joe's Bar or continue down to the rocks.

The rocks won,

and from them, the sea was mesmerizing,

but the breeze, the conversation, and the view of Paul do Mar (to which we will return!)

kept some quite content to remain on the boardwalk.

We walked back up hill, toward the neighborhood, and noticed this plot of land for sale.

Not a bad view.

The neighborhood was connected entirely by sidewalks that snaked through a variety of plants, flowers, grape vines and banana trees.

It made for easy walking,

and exceptional views.

By now, we were hungry, so we headed to an old favorite, As Vides,

for espetada (as the seed had been planted earlier in the day at the festival).

I can't imagine there being better espetadas anywhere on the island, but I suspect we will investigate further over the coming weeks. After dinner, the children taught each other some Portuguese and English,

and we snapped this picture of the deservedly proud chef and his kitchen.

On the way back home, Bishop said, "Just when you think you have seen all the beautiful of Madeira, it just keeps on coming."

Porto (part 3)

2009-04-11T06:00:00.000-07:00

On our third day in Porto, we decided to visit Viana do Castelo, to the north, to see our language teacher in Madeira. She was visiting home for Easter and invited us for a day in her village.

We met for lunch and she brought her cousin and daughter along. We ate well and had a chance to talk about lots of things; international relations, regional cuisine and differences between the United States and Portugal. Here, for instance we are discussing the different ways we count on our fingers. In Portugal, one is the thumb, two the thumb and index finger, and three the thumb, index and middle. I am demonstrating the way we 'say' three in America.

After yet another delicious meal, we headed outside to see some of Viana,

but it started raining, pretty hard,

and this changed our sight-seeing plans. We were disappointed to board the train back to Porto so soon, but were grateful for the meal and the opportunity to meet friends.

We were warned that the weather would remain rainy, so after one last look out the bedroom window in he hotel, we hoped for the best and headed out for our final day in Porto.

A block down the street, we saw a little musical show to mark the hour. It was an entertaining and auspicious beginning to our Good Friday.

With an eye toward the sky, and umbrellas tucked in our coats, we began a familiar walk and were very pleased to see more blue than anything else behind the Torre dos Clerigos.

We visited the famous bookstore from the same era as the Majestic Cafe and found it to be pretty fantastic. I could have taken tons of pictures here, but we were all encouraged to take only one, so this is it, of the upstairs.

After plenty of browsing and gawking, we headed across the street

and through the park to find the home of famed 19th century Porto poet, Almeida Garrett. Unfortunately, it was closed, but we got a shot of the home's front, with a white cat in the window.

With the sky so unexpectedly clear and nice, we decided to go across the Douro River to have lunch and visit a Port house in Vila Nova de Gaia. Along the way we saw this statue, which we had seen many times, and almost always with a gull perched atop the bespectacled priest.

Once we crossed the river, it wasn't too difficult to find a good meal, and after a couple of days, we learned to order half portions. We asked for a small steak for Bishop, and this is what we got.

He was obviously pleased, and it is good to see him find his way around the menu, away from pao e manteiga. My shrimp in beer sauce was also quite rewarding.

While we were eating it poured rain for about 30 minutes, but it stopped and cleared up for the rest of the afternoon. Next, we went in search of the Niepoort facilty, upon the recommendation of a friend, but it was closed,

so we visited Vasconcellos, one of only 4 Port houses entirely owned and run by a Portuguese family. It was small and the tour was very personable and informative.

We were particularly impressed with the "finest" port in the house, from 1902, a very good year, kept in these barrels. The designation 40+ years is the highest their labeling system goes, whether the port is 41 years old or 107, as in this case.

I suppose it is customary to say the best part of the tour is the tasting. It was very nice indeed, and we tasted some whites and reds and then decided what we wanted to take with us.

Tasting can be serious business, even for a couple of novices like us. We left with two bottles and look forward to educating ourselves further.

Outside, the weather was beautiful and we enjoyed the view of Porto.

I treated myself to a shave around the corner. This is something I have always wanted to do, so when we walked past this very inviting barber shop, my family encouraged this indulgence.

Generally speaking, I hate to shave, and I only do so about once or twice a week. This was the best shave I have ever had, and if I could afford this extravagance I would do it more often. It was quite relaxing.

The barber was particularly fond of our kids (and their hair) and he coaxed Bishop into the chair and asked if he wanted a short or long cut. Bishop answered, "Nao cut" and we were on our way.

Before crossing the Douro, we stopped for a couple of more pictures of the great city from this vantage point.

Before catching our late flight back to Funchal, we stopped in Majestic Cafe one final time.

I think Zelle found it an easy place to be,

and we all feel the same about Porto. I wish we'd had more time, because there were still several things we wanted to do. I guess we'll have to come back sometime and complete the list.

Porto (part 2)

2009-04-08T15:22:00.000-07:00

We awoke to several helpful comments on our blog from a Porto native. He, or she, offered several ideas and places to see which we took into genuine consideration. With new energy, destinations, and sunshine, we headed out for the day.

I'll begin by posting a photo from yesterday of the trolley car which was noted as forgotten by our anonymous Porto friend. They really are quite charming and I am not certain as to how we left this photo out of yesterday's mix.

We began with an introduction to the metro system. Like most metro systems that I have encountered, it felt initially busy and intimidating but quickly became logical and efficient. After figuring out how to purchase four tickets for the correct distance and going up and down the wrong escalator to the incorrect side of the train once (the busy and intimidating phase),

we soon got turned in the right direction and ended up within a block of our first destination, Casa da Musica, in about four minutes (the logical and efficient phase). As you can see, Casa da Musica, commands attention as it is a large contemporary presence in the landscape.

Unfortunately, there wasn't a venue or a gig for us to enjoy, however, we did savor a coffee,

admire it's architectural design,

and wish we had brought a skateboard along.

Next, we walked through a park with a most interesting statue, the Monumento a Guerra Penninsular. It is tremendous

and impressive and violent.

Perhaps intense would be a more fitting word.

Next, we continued west to an eagerly anticipated destination, Casa de Serralves, Porto's contemporary art museum.

Upon entering, Alex and I took one look around and realized we would be there for the afternoon. As we mentally began scratching things off our day's agenda, we relaxed into the relatively new (ten year old) museum,

sculpture,

flower gardens,

grounds,

and farm.

Viewing art alongside children is exciting and fresh.

The exhibits by artists Bethan Huws and Guy Tillim gave Alex, the kids and me much to talk about over an elegant lunch on the museum's top floor. The forty five acres that our tickets gave us access to were enchanting to say the least. In wonderful ways, certain images reminded me of home.

And on our way out, I couldn't help but marvel at the way the groups of school children marked themselves with precious hats.

When it was time to move on, we took another tip from our Porto friend and headed to the Crystal Palace; its grounds were lovely and skirted the Duoro River.

Had we not just spent hours meandering the gardens elsewhere, we may have lingered longer but we were a little tired and eager to check out our friend's next suggestion, Rua Miguel Bombarda. This is a street devoted to art galleries and delightfully funky shops featuring the works of various artisans. It was a street we would never have happened upon on our own, and it was a bright new way to walk back to the hotel.

After an abbreviated rest hour, we walked down yet another cobbled alley to a recommended restaurant, Abadia, with a friendly waiter who encouraged our Portuguese and served us a delicious meal. Our children are getting used to long and late dinners. I am not certain that this will serve us well in the future, however, they are adapting well to this pace. In fact, they are adapting so well, that perhaps this is why Bishop spent an entire exhibit earlier today in this position.

Boa noite.

Porto (part 1)

2009-04-07T14:40:00.000-07:00

For spring break, we decided to visit Porto, the biggest city in northern Portugal, in order to see more of the mainland. We had a kind of late night in Madeira with friends the day before we traveled, and as a result, we were a bit tired when we arrived on Monday. After checking in to the very cozy Grande Hotel do Porto, we mustered a late afternoon walk and took a few pictures along the way. We saw the Cathedral,

from where we gazed out over the city,

and eventually reached our destination, the Douro River.

I thought we were done; it was drizzling and a little chilly, but we stopped by the world famous Majestic Cafe for a glass on the way back to the hotel. The cafe is luckfully (as Bishop would say) across the street from the hotel.

After a little nap, we rallied for a nice meal at A Brasileira. We have found that one can eat very well in Porto. Then we returned to the hotel for the night, tired but in good enough spirits to climb the very cool hotel stairs,

Tuesday morning we awoke refreshed and ready to stroll about and see some monuments and churches. We began at the Mercado do Bolhao, which was rather expansive.

It smelled really, really good there, like tea olive and cilantro mixed together,

and we bought some sweets,

and appreciated the sun coming out as we continued on our way. We went inside this church, which was lovely. I can't remember the name of this particular church, but you really can't walk two blocks without seeing a beautiful church and adjacent park.

We kept on through the Praca da Liberdade,

which is about three blocks in length and is surrounded my some fairly remarkable architecture, even by Porto standards.

Next we walked toward the Torre dos Clerigos, which, situated on a hill, is visible from practically everywhere in the city.

On the way, we found this very small, old bookstore, where Farrar bought some supplies for the children.

We had planned to turn toward the river at the tower, but when we crested the hill, we were pleasantly surprised to discover a Charles Darwin exhibition at the University.

The evidence presented by Mr. Darwin remains compelling

and entertaining. Yes, that is a Jane Goodall video playing next to all those primates.

The exhibit was a great find and one that added to the homeschool curriculum.

Upon leaving the museum, we saw yet another impressive church,

and around the corner, we were again pleasantly surprised by a spacious, green park,

which was very suitable for an easy stroll,

and then, a laugh, when we saw this great sculpture

that the kids found particularly inspiring.

So after our detour through evolution and the park, we pressed on toward the Palacio da Bolsa and the Igreja da Sao Francisco, named for St. Francis of Assisi. These two spots, literally connected to each other, were among the more memorable places I have ever seen. As one might expect, there were no photographs allowed on the interior, so all I have are some outside shots. That is the Palace, with a statue of Infante Dom Henrique in the lawn, and that is the church, attached to the palace on the left.

and the church, closer.

I suppose it is more accurate to say the Palace is attached to the church, as the church has been there since the 13th century and the Palace since the 19th century when Queen Maria II facilitated its construction by allowing the Porto Commercial Association to build there, on what had been the church's convent, burned in the Siege of Porto in 1832. Anyway, I learned all that in the guided tour through the palace. We were so impressed that we bought Farrar a trinket before we left. Incidentally, the very helpful guide/trinket-seller and her colleague were both originally from Madeira. The world is still small.

The church was just breath-taking. It was ridiculous. I hate to sound maudlin (I really do) but I could have cried when I walked in. After a couple of minutes in there, Farrar walked up to me and asked if I felt oddly emotional upon entering, so it wasn't just me. And she likes being maudlin even less than I do, if that is possible. It was just overwhelmingly beautiful, and the amount of detail and craftsmanship and gilt foliage was too much for the eyes to manage. Afterwards I stood outside and stared at the Douro, which we'd been trying to reach all day, and I thought about the fact that people had been standing here looking at this river from this amazing place for nearly 800 years. I guess I don't think about history enough, but this was pretty staggering for me.

While at the church, one can visit the catacombs, something I have never done, anywhere. It was predictably eerie, I suppose, walking along the creaking boards and knowing what was beneath. The mystery was removed in one room, where a section of the floor had been replaced with a glass panel. Zelle said it gave her a stomach ache, and Farrar did not linger too long. Bishop and I knelt down and peered through the small opening at every angle, maximizing our view of bones: skulls, vertebrae, femurs, fibulas, and lots of them. It was a bit disturbing, but I couldn't really stop looking. It was a strange visual to follow the Darwin exhibit an hour or so earlier.

After we left the church, we walked along the riverfront in Ribeira. It was splendid and scenic,

and then a dog even blessed this picture, a final surprise in a day of pleasant ones.

....after reviewing this post, I realize that tomorrow I need to try to walk in front of everyone, so there are fewer pictures of our backsides.

Amigos

2009-03-30T09:57:00.000-07:00

Since we have been here on the island, we have found the people to be extremely friendly. Whether it be the morning visits to the pastalaria, the frequent walks to the CAB Madeira gym, or the time spent at University or the Language School, we have been met with engaging, sincere and personable faces. We have been fortunate enough to make some friends and they have been good enough to show us around and allow us further access to their beautiful island. One family in particular has been generous beyond any reasonable expectation.

Sundays have become days to venture out from the city and see more of Madeira. Two weeks ago we headed west to the sunny side of the island and spent the day exploring Ribeira Brava.

Like any good time, it is made better with companions.

On the way home, we stopped in Estreito de Camara de Lobos for some authentic local cuisine.

We ate espetadas at As Vides (The Vines). Espetada is an incredibly delicious beef on a skewer. As I understand it, the meat is caked in garlic and salt and cooked on bay leaf skewers. Like many great things, it sounds simple, I suppose. They were served with salad, batatas (french fries) and fried maize, which tasted remarkably similar to grits, for obvious reasons. I regret that I did not take a picture of the skewers hanging from the rods at the table, but once they were served, there wasn't much anyone wanted to do but eat. The meal was incredible.

This past Sunday, we headed east, to Canical, where we saw the end of the island, which looked more like the edge of the world.

These are the Deserted Islands off in the distance. They are not inhabited. Somedays they are not visible from Funchal, but today was relatively clear, and we were closer.

We walked around a bit, but it was a tad chilly,

so we promised Bishop we would return on a sunny day. He didn't seem to mind the cold and probably could have stayed all afternoon.

But we pushed on, to the north side of the island and drove through Santana and Sao Jorge, but not before stopping to take a picture of these wind towers, if that is what they are called.

The scenery, in general, is pretty extraordinary, and I think we could live here a very long time before we grew accustomed to it. We had dinner in Sao Jorge, and it was delicious, again. On the way back to Funchal, we stopped at Ponta do Garajau, where there is a lovely beach we plan to visit in the daytime. This statue stands on the cliff directly above the beach, a long way down. It may remind you of the famous (and larger) statue of Christ in Brazil, but as our friends tell us, this one is older (and better).

As our friends also told us, though we have many miles between us, we are very much alike. I take comfort in that. I am learning to value every day we have here, but I must admit, I find myself looking forward to Sundays. I can't wait to see (and taste) what lies in store.

The Flat by Zelle

2009-03-28T04:38:00.000-07:00

Lots of my friends have been asking about our apartment or "flat" as they call it here. So, I thought I'd show you around.

The first thing that you need to know is that it is very small. Mom loves it because we can clean it up in about 20 minutes. My chart-loving, school teacher mother thinks that everyone should be able to help clean the house, therefore she made a chart so that we can all "join the fun." Here it is:

Monday: vacuum, dust, tidy, Tuesday: bathrooms, tidy, Wednesday: vacuum, dust, tidy, iron, Thursday: kitchen, tidy, Friday: vacuum, dust, tidy, Saturday: bathrooms, tidy, and Sunday: iron, mop, tidy...no rest for the weary. Here is the very front door to the entire building.

We also have an elevator, which is very very fun.

The only thing that would make the flat better is if it had a doorman because you have to unlock three doors to get inside. Plus, every time I see doormen on television they seem very nice.

When you walk into the door of our actual apartment, you see a big room with a sitting area where we spend most of our time.

As you can see, the ironing board is out like it always is. I must admit that it's very nice having your entire wardrobe ironed, even your pajamas and especially your sheets. There is a small dining room connecting to the sitting room.

The kitchen and then the laundry room are connected to the dining room. The kitchen is very small also. I think that mom enjoys the fact that the kitchen is "limited."

But Dad says it's just fine for us.

It is nice to have an entire small room for laundry, but as of a few days ago, Bishop and I turned it into a play area with offices and an art studio. Mom gave us the entire space to do whatever we wanted. This is where having a schoolteacher mom is not so bad.

Down the hall are our two bedrooms and bathrooms. Bishop and I share a room, which is a bit challenging at times. One of the hardest things is at night when we are going to bed and he wants it light and I want it dark. He has the light switch beside his bed, so guess who wins? A good thing about sharing a room with Bishop is that he is pretty hilarious and he makes me laugh. If Bishop were writing this blog, I'm sure that he would have loads of things to say about me! Since mom has loved being in a small space, I am a little worried that we will end up moving into a smaller house one day with me sharing a room with Bishop permanently!

Our bathroom is very nice. We have the only bathtub.

We also have this thing called a bidet. It is sitting next to the toilet. Mom says that I can stop right here with the description of what you do with the bidet.

The next room is mom and dad's room. It is pretty basic, except that they do have their own veranda which is pretty cool.

One thing that we have all noticed about living here is how efficient and mindful of waste and the environment everyone is. We can recycle almost everything, and it makes our trash so much less. Mrs. Cooper and Mr. Thompson, my science teachers, would be very impressed. For example, you can't go very far down the street without seeing one of these.

All in all, the living space is pretty cool. I wish that we had neighbors with kids to play with, but there is still time for that. Hope that you enjoyed the tour!

Ciao.

Days With Dear

2009-03-22T05:22:00.000-07:00

The days leading up to Dear, my sweet mom's, visit were a bit reminiscent of the night before Christmas or the last day of school before summer. Zelle and Bishop could hardly sleep the night before and as Zelle said, "I don't remember the last time I have been this excited." Seeing her walk through the gates of the Madeira airport was a wonderful sight.

The first couple of days were spent simply showing Dear around, introducing her to our neighborhood, and our routine.

She was immediately taken with the ground covering which is abundant nasturtiums, the first plant she remembers planting as a child.

Within days, we had glass jars filled with beautiful nasturtium leaves and flowers around the flat. That was simply one of the many touches that Dear gave to our flat that made it feel more inviting, comfortable, and definitely more attractive.

We took Dear to Monte so that she could view Madeira from the cable ride, and as we knew she would, she focused on the ways the small plots of land were terraced, the chicken houses and the roosters, the older women tending their gardens, and the variety of ways houses were structured. Dear has a unique way of noticing things that others often pass by, and it was great fun to experience much of Madeira with her eyes along.

The tropical gardens at Monte were new to us as we did not see them on our first trip. The contemporary Zimbabwe sculpture exhibit along with the mineral and gem collections were highlights as well as exciting surprises.

Both mom and Bishop share a love of rocks. While I have been discouraging the collecting of rocks from every crevice of the island, Mom gave Bishop permission as well as techniques and unlimited space in her carry all for acquiring them. (Don't worry, they did not collect them from the garden or the exhibit.) He is quite thrilled with his current stash. The tropical gardens were tremendous and took the better part of our day to explore. Free reign to explore, get in a few climbing predicaments, be chased by an angry swan, take four hundred pictures of a proud peacock, balance on a few precariously placed stones, and pretend one existed in an enchanted garden were merely a few of the things that made this day so memorable.

When Alex returned on Friday, Mom made a move to Reid's Palace, the hotel that we picked out for her. Reid's Palace was perfect for mom for many reasons that merely began with the fact that it was a favorite of Winston Churchill's. It is an older hotel that is well...simply charming in ways that mom especially appreciated. While her room had a very quaint sort of "room of one's own" feel, she was generous enough to share it with us all on occasion. One afternoon was spent enjoying her room's amenities......

... and having cocktails and snacks on the terrace.

Both Zelle and Bishop were each able to spend a night with Dear, enjoy breakfast, and of course, swim in the pool!

While Alex was at work, we found another couple of places to play. We traveled to the town of Camacha which is famous for its production of wicker.

Bishop was particularly taken with the wicker replica of the ship sailed by Zarco, the explorer credited with discovering Madeira in 1419.

And we were all quite amused by the wicker farm animals.

After that, we made our way to Madeira's famous botanical gardens. I was thrilled to see these for the first time with Dear because had she not been there, all I would have said for the entire visit would have been, "Oh, my mom would not believe this!"

As always, the kids found a way to play....

....and a fantastic view.

Finally, Alex had time to play and we spent our last day all together at a place called Nun's Valley or Curral das Freiras. The drive up the mountain was lined with tremendous and fragrant eucalyptus trees. As the temperature began to drop, and we began to drive directly upward, we rolled the windows down and took it all in. Nun's Valley was a place of refuge for a community of a nun's from marauding pirates. It was breathtaking to say the least. Our photographs do not begin to show you its true beauty.

There, we enjoyed a lunch that quickly became a memorial to mom's dad, Turley, when she ordered roasted sardines. I feel that I can confidently speak for mom in saying that it was her favorite meal and perhaps her favorite place.

Then, it was on to Camara de Lobos, a small fishing village. It was quite scenic and where Winston Churchill chose to set up and paint various landscapes. We walked around for a bit, spent some time in a church, and tasted the famous Nikita, a delicious drink made of I think sorbet, wine, and a splash of beer. (I fell down on my photographic duties and forgot to photograph the Nikita. Think pina colada and Alex in a straw hat. Sorry I don't have the image for you. It was indeed memorable.)

We spent our last night at a familiar restaurant eating steak on the stone, a new favorite, and wishing Dear wasn't leaving. Her visit went by too quickly, and I think she began to fall in love with Madeira as we have. Since her departure, we have practiced looking at things through eyes like Dear's, careful not to miss the little lizard, the fragile bloom, a paper store, a particularly charming sidewalk, or a terrific hat. Something about being around mom just makes you feel like wearing one.

So, thanks a million, mom...for lots of things. I will be forever grateful for the tremendous effort you made to visit our little life across the ocean.

Fulbright Conference

2009-03-16T15:10:00.000-07:00

For the past week and a half I have been away from Madeira. I participated in a Fulbright conference in Luxembourg, Brussels and Brugge. It was a busy and exciting week. There were 35 or so of us. "Us" being American Fulbrighters in Europe. The vast majority were studying European history or politics or business, and I am still wondering why they wanted a poet along for the ride. I learned a lot. In fact, I'll bet I know as much about European government and its institutions as any poet in America. Well, that may be a stretch; there is a better chance that I now know more about European government than I do about American government. In Luxembourg, we visited the Court of Justice and the Court of Auditors. For our lone night in Luxembourg, we were entertained at the US ambassador's house.

Then, the next day we went to Brussels where we stayed for a week, visiting the European Commission and the Council of Ministers, where I pretended to be someone.

I also took a picture of this ashtray, because with the accompanying sign, I thought it was fairly representative of political institutions.

We also visited the US Mission to the EU, NATO Headquarters and SHAPE Headquarters. SHAPE is an acronym for the Supreme Headquarters for the Allied Powers of Europe. The three writers on the trip all agreed that it sounded like something out of a comic book. In reality, it is a military base where 8500 people live from 26 or 27 countries. It has 7 elementary schools and 3 high schools, and to be honest, I felt a bit nervous the whole time I was there. We were advised not to take pictures.

We took a day off from Brussels to visit the College of Europe in Brugge. It was a nice change of pace. Brugge was quite lovely and relaxing. I think I saw more bikes than cars there and the scenery was mostly overwhelming.

I saw this Michelangelo statue in a Cathedral.

The best day though, was Sunday in Brussels, our free day. The sun came out after a rainy morning and I went on an extensive lark with a few friends and took a lot of pictures of a variety of neighborhoods.

Yes, I think that is a brain. Then we continued to a park, a very big park where lots of kids were playing lots of games, including some pretty serious amateur boxing.

We also saw the famous statue of the boy taking a leak. I suppose I have seen something similar on any number of pickup trucks in the United States, but this was the real thing. He was dressed this way for some kind of festival.

Of course, we sampled some of the local cuisine.

And we kept on walking. I bumped into Claude's Belgian cousin.

It started getting late, so we headed back to the hotel, and then it started snowing.

But not 5 to 7 inches like it does in South Carolina.

All in all it was a great experience, but I am very happy to be back in Madeira, where it is not snowing and my students can't wait to discuss American poetry and film.

Fridays

2009-03-07T11:18:00.000-08:00

With the beautiful, sunny weather, it has been easy to get out and about, explore a bit, and see things literally in a new light.

Fridays take us to town early because we begin with language class first thing in the morning. It has become one of our favorite days because it is the great day of Friday or sexta-feira, we take a day off from homeschool, and it is our day for new adventures. This past Friday was no exception.

We began with language school.....

....and then hit the market.

The market felt especially hectic, almost as if the sun had brought new and abundant produce. There is really no way to describe how enchanting it looks and feels to walk within this space. I have tried to take a few photographs from the second floor because that view is the closest thing to sharing with you the way if feels to me to walk around in the middle of it all. There are flowers, baskets, goods, crafts, fruits and vegetables, fish, and so many colors.

It is not uncommon for a vendor to offer you a taste of a fruit or a vegetable to get your attention. Zelle, Bishop, and I were particularly fond of a fruit that was new to us. It looks a little like a cross between a small tomato and a pomegranate. I am still trying to find the exact name. I will let you know when I do. The way you eat them is to cut them in half, mix the insides with a teaspoon of sugar, and slurp it all out of the "shells." At least, that's the way we ate them at the market and that is the way we continued to eat them at home. I am certain there is a more civilized way to do such.

Outside the market, there are more and more and more flowers.

One can easily create a small arrangement such as this one.

After we had lingered long enough, we headed down to the water, Bishop's most favorite spot, to see if we could spot any neat ships,

play a bit on the rock walls in the park,

and walk to a great looking fort that caught our eye on our trip to Monte.

It is Fortaleza Sao Tiago or Fort St. James, and much to Zelle's delight, it houses Madeira's Contemporary Art Museum. We immediately loved the contrast of such an old structure being the home of such new art.

The exhibit that we enjoyed was one that focused on the theme of eggs, chickens, egg crates, egg shells, egg cartons...you get the idea. It was one of the most interesting installations I have ever seen.

One thing that we loved was a room where the floor was covered in crushed eggshells. We had to wear protective "booties," and it was a fun feeling to walk on that floor. As you can imagine, it made a terrific sound. Zelle wondered if the artist began with only partly crushed eggshells and allowed this work of art to evolve over days of being stepped upon, or if the artist got to do all of that fun crushing.

One aspect of this exhibit that I was quite thrilled for Bishop and for Zelle to see was the way the artist chose to display the many drawings and plans leading up to each final piece. They didn't just happen the day before the exhibit was to be installed...or the day before the paper was due or the night before one's recital or the five minutes before room inspection...etc.

Okay, and I could not capture this in a photo very well, but this huge wall of drawings on sticky notes was once a book of sticky notes that made a flip book where the pictures appear to be moving when you flip them fast enough. You know...the ones that many of my former students have made with the sticky notes that they were supposed to use for asking questions while reading...I know you know. Anyway, the box of light in the second picture is a little movie of the flip book that the sticky notes once made. Very cool. Perhaps I shouldn't have confiscated them all, kids. Sorry.

On our way home, we trotted through our favorite park and saw, yes, another poised canine.

Then, when the day was just about over, and we thought we couldn't view another delightful sight.....we saw one of my most favorite cars ever....in RED of all things. So great looking isn't it? I wonder if Mr. Pye could find one of these for me back home?

Well, I'll end here. It's late, and I'm sure you've had enough. Here's to Fridays. Boa noite.

A Sunny Day by Bishop

2009-03-04T12:13:00.001-08:00

I have been hearing about all that snow back in South Carolina, and I think I would trade three days in Madeira to have gotten to play in that snow. It made me really homesick. But today made things better because it was the first real sunny day that stayed sunny all day long.

Here is what we got to do:

First, we had a little school and then headed to the park. We played basketball, and while we were there, we saw something in the sky. It looked like a parachute but it was steering up and down. They kept zooming past us up high in the sky. I asked mom what they were. She said that they must be parasails. She sat by someone on the plane who was visiting Madeira to parasail, so it must be popular here. We watched for a LONG time. They were parasails! They landed right beside us and then packed it all up in a backpack. It was very exciting.

Then, we went to get a chocolate pastry. They are soooooo good. They are like long flat croissants with melted chocolate inside.

Next, we sat for a while enjoying the chocolate while watching people swim in the ocean and looking at the pools where we will get to swim soon. I am so mad that nobody will go swimming with me yet. I don't think it is too cold at all.

We went back to the center of the field in the park and played this cool sling shot game that my grandfather, Bear, gave me. Our record was ten in a row which is hard to do!

School wears me out but playing in the park wears mom out.

Before we left, Zelle and I got to play in a new tree that we discovered. There are the best trees for climbing here. The sunny day made everything better.

School by Zelle

2009-03-02T12:25:00.000-08:00

School is different here than at home. The main difference is that we go to school in our flat with my mom as our teacher. Sometimes, we get to go to school in our pajamas, but Mom prefers us to get dressed. She says it helps you feel ready to learn.

The main way we can get in trouble at school here is if we break one of the home school rules. They are:

1. Try not to ask mom any questions about school until she has had her coffee and checked her email. (This is a biggie, let me tell you.)

2. Brush your teeth before school.

3. You may not quit.

4. Mom cannot easily help two people with different assignments at the same time, so be respectful and take turns.

5. When you don't want to do something, you cannot say, I'm hungry, to get out of doing it. (This is a newly added rule as a result of ...guess who?)

6. Put school stuff back in the cabinet when we are finished. (Our home school table is also where we eat.)

We usually begin around 9:00 with our Neo (to teach us keyboarding) and our Math Facts practice. It is like taking a timed multiplication test every morning which is not always so fun, but they are getting easier. Bishop likes to cheer me on which is sometimes appreciated and sometimes not. I cheer him on as well.

We write in our journals every night, but sometimes we catch up at school if we were too tired.

Next, Bishop works on his sounds and dictation while I alternate between English, Math, History, Spanish and Science. I choose two subjects each day and alternate. My teachers at home gave me lots of work so that I could keep up. It makes me feel nervous to get behind, so sometimes I do extra. That is the hardest thing besides missing my teachers and friends.

Next, we usually take a break and have a little recess. We walk down to our favorite pastelaria and have pastries and coffee and visit with our friends, the owners. As you can see, there are lots of choices. I usually get a galao, which is a milky coffee, and a pastry. Bishop always, always, always gets a version of a doughnut with this coarse sugar all over it. Sometimes, I get that too. They taste different, but I think I like these better even though DD and Krispy Kreme are hard to beat.

Then, we will take a walk down to the basketball court and shoot baskets or climb in the trees. Bishop usually tires us out so we watch him a while until it is time to get back to work.

If it is raining, which it has been doing a lot lately, our favorite "break" choices are playing chess or Phase 10. Sometimes, Mom even lets us watch a little television in Portuguese. That is really interesting, and I think I am actually learning a little Portuguese that way.

Next, Bishop reads to Mom and I continue with whatever subjects I have left. Often, I write a journal entry or complete an assignment to email to my teachers back home. Mom likes to teach but not to grade, so my teachers still do this part.

I try to practice my clarinet each day. I had to get clever with a homemade music stand. It works just fine, and so far the neighbors haven't complained.

It is usually around this time that Bishop is worn out by school.

Overall, school is good. I feel like I understand the material and it is great getting one on one instruction. We can go really fast some days and that is fun. I really miss my friends, joking and learning with them, and I miss all of my teachers. I'll keep you posted about language classes which started last week and any new homeschool developments which hopefully will not include any new rules.

Work, the Ambassador, Wine and of course, Basketball

2009-02-28T13:47:00.000-08:00

This has been a fairly busy week. While I have started teaching, it has been an abbreviated beginning. Classes on Monday and Tuesday were cancelled for Carnival celebrations, and the US Ambassador was on the island until Thursday. I met most of my students on Wednesday and simply had a chance to get to know them a little bit. Class begins in earnest this week for me, but a Fulbright conference in Brussels will create another absence, or more accurately, delay.

I have an office; it is nice and I share it with Bernardo. Along with many others at the University, he has been very gracious.

The Ambassador's visit was educational and enlightening. On Wednesday, Bernardo and I met him and his posse at Quinta Magnolia, the site of the American Culture Corner (Library) in Funchal. We had a brief sit down with him and I learned that his high school age son plays club basketball in Lisbon. I also learned that he is from North Carolina originally, so we had some regional points of interest to discuss. Among his group were a number of very nice folks, including Edgar Potter, the American Consular agent on the Island. He has lived here 32 years and he asked that we come to a cocktail party that night.

The gathering was at the top of this large rock, in the glassed area. It is at the end of the long pier in the harbor and, as you would expect, it provides quite a view. Walking there was rather interesting, and Farrar and I hesitated as we approached, fearing perhaps that we would be put to work on the docks if we got any closer. Eventually a police officer told us we were in the right place and two elevator rides later we were up there, with the Consular agent, his staff, the Ambassador, his posse and the other 20 or so Americans in Madeira.

A couple of days later, we went by the Consular agent's office to "register" so they can include us in any events they might have. Everyone there is helpful and friendly, and their office is on the marina, right above a Pizza Hut and McDonald's....of course. We visited just before lunch and asked for a suggestion. After we refused the options downstairs, they suggested a place across the street on the water. They said it would be a good place for the kids, and all.

Despite the name, it was, in the end, a rather tame and scenic spot. I guess I am learning that there aren't too many places that are not scenic here, well, except for my office, but you've seen that already. It was cloudy that day, and we experienced our first rains in Madeira.

A meal at the Beer House can make you tired, or cansada, as I have recently learned. But there is always one of these nearby, and always under a dollar.

After a relaxing coffee break, we stopped in a wine shop downtown to buy some Dry Sercial, upon the recommendation of our very good friend, Will Motley, proprietor of the Woodland Wine Merchant in Nashville. The proprietor at this place was eager to have us try some samples and tell us all about the Madeiras.

I learned that Sercial is a grape and all Sercial Madeiras are aged at least 10 years. There are some Sercials that are 5 years old, but they have a percentage of another grape in them. I think it was Tinta Negra. At any rate, the name "Sercial" is soon going to be removed from all such "impure" bottles. Some kind of wine law, I guess. After this information, of course, we went for the real thing.

Oh yeah, I also found a Basketball game. Jaime, who I'd met at the park a week or so ago, called and asked if I'd like to join him where he has started back playing, in his hometown of Canico, just east of Funchal. Jaime is the guy next to me, and his wife, Rosa, is in one of my classes at University. They are very nice and hospitable, like so many people we have met here.

While on the subject of basketball, I should mention that it occupied most of our Saturday. Bishop finally had his first practice and he enjoyed it very much, despite the language barrier. It was a fairly traditional practice with drills,

and a scrimmage at the end,

but best of all, teammates.

After practice we had lunch, and returned to the gym to watch the men play. The home team, in red, won. The women have a playoff game tomorrow, and you can rest assured we will be there.

It's a good thing the whole family loves basketball...and dogs; we are becoming quite fond of this one, who lives a block away from the gym.

Monte

2009-02-23T13:13:00.000-08:00

Today was a good day for an outing. It was the warmest day since we have been here, so after a productive morning of school, we set out to visit the town of Monte, just north of Funchal. There are some interesting travel options to take, and we chose a cable car (one-way) which afforded 15-20 minutes of pretty spectacular views of Funchal and its surroundings. Naturally, we began on the ground, and began our slow ascent above some of the city's homes.

Pretty soon, we were up a good ways,

but everyone felt safe and secure....hanging by a cable.

Once we arrived in Monte, we were happy to put our feet on the ground. There were a few botanical gardens, which we will probably enjoy next time. This time, we were hungry and found a little restaurant next to yet another beautiful church. The restaurant was on the third floor, with a souvenir shop on the first floor and a bar on the second. Farrar said it was her favorite meal we have had in Madeira, and it was quite good. Something for everyone: roasted chicken, vegetable omelets, french fries, salad, rice and of course, bread and butter.

The church was on the small side, but typically lovely and provided an incredible view of Funchal.

The painting on the ceiling of the church was particularly alluring as were the crystal chandeliers, confessional and altar.

Rather than riding back down on the cable, we chose to take the toboggans,

which was an experience in and of itself. While the drivers were not working, they were moving back and forth between the bars and a card game,

Two men alternately pull and ride behind (at rather high speeds) down the narrow streets of Monte. The streets are not closed, so we (or I should say, they) negotiated the twisting narrow alleys while dodging the moving cars.

When the excitement was over, we were still about a 30 minute walk from the city center, so the kids talked us into taking our first cab. It was definitely worth it; our driver was very helpful and told us more about the island and different possible day trips of interest. He was a native of Madeira but had spent 9 years in the UK working different jobs and learning English, which he spoke well.

Due to this indulgence that spared us a 50 minute walk home, we felt refreshed enough to walk up the hill to the CAB Madeira gym, mostly so everyone would know the way, but also hoping we might get on the court. When we arrived, the floor was unoccupied and they let us in, cut on the lights and rolled out some basketballs! It was nice and familiar to be in a gym and to shoot on goals with nets. We played some knockout and 2 on 2 and headed home, Farrar snapping shots of some cool homes along the way.

Creeping toward anything familiar

2009-02-20T12:46:00.000-08:00

The idea of visiting somewhere new and exciting, as I have learned in the past two weeks, becomes all together different when you wind up living there. Once eating out for every meal was no longer an option, many of the exciting places had been visited, the children were beginning to remember the thrills of irritating each other, all the clothes were dirty, and the apartment needed to be cleaned, Alex and I realized that we were no longer on vacation. We have been looking out and around at the most beautiful things, landscapes, and people,

but a few days ago, it became necessary for me at least, to look down and in, closely and specifically at the details of how people live here in order to try and give it a whirl.

I had my first slightly disenchanted moment, I think, when I bought a pint of what I thought was vegetable broth to make risotto only to find that I had purchased bean soup. Risotto made with bean soup was hardly a crowd pleaser. I had to dig deep in a shallow pantry (luckily a shallow pantry is something that I do have experience with) and try again. That moment happened to follow my realization that hanging clothes to dry, while producing an incredibly lovely aroma, leaves them stiff and not exactly what the sensory driven individuals (yes, Bishop and myself) are accustomed to. About this time, I eyed the ironing board, and putting one domestic tip with another, realized that the heat of the iron indeed produces the element necessary to soften things up. This bliss was thwarted temporarily by the thought of just how much ironing this meant. The day continued like this, sign after sign that I was in over my head. I think this was the same day that Alex and Bishop headed toward heaven to find a court and Zelle approached me with a detailed school schedule for the next few days. Everyone was in step except for me...time to get it together to say the least.

So, I went to work noticing the small things like the ways that women hang clothes on the drying rack, the way people linger at meals, eat slowly, maneuver around the city, choose fruit at the market, and even organize the trash, excuse me, rubbish. I realized I had to find a favorite place to go and go there a lot until it began to feel familiar.

I've gotten to work on much of this. Some of it has begun to feel comfortable. The rest will hopefully come in time. I have found a great rock that has, at all times, a pair of gulls perched on its top,

a place to have coffee or "uma bica" anytime of day with friendly owners who humor my language barrier and let me try anyway,

a system for school

and laundry,

and dishes,

a dog that might just begin recognizing me as I pass,

a Friday flower delivery,

a grocery store,

a dance party,

and last but not least, I have found my familiar place on the bench where I am most comfortable, taking pictures and cheering for my team as they take on another.

It is far from clockwork and the cooking still has miles to go,

but I can count on a few things which is all I suppose any of us ever really need.

Oh, and in case you ever need to know, melba toast tastes the same everywhere, and butter cookies are always delicious.

Basketball

2009-02-19T01:49:00.000-08:00

I mentioned a few days ago that we bought a basketball. That is the beginning. Naturally, on the way home after the purchase, Bishop wanted to stop by the goal at the park. Given that we had been walking all day and it was nearly 7:30, Farrar and Zelle opted to take the road home, while Bishop and I turned downhill and snaked our way to the hoop.

The area is well lit and the park is usually fairly active, though there isn't much action on the court. In the park adjacent, there are anywhere from 30 to 50 people kicking 10-20 soccer balls around. Usually we have the goal to ourselves. On this first night, a young girl (about 6 0r 7) stood at the edge of the court, interested in what Bishop was doing. After a few minutes, and her father's encouragement, she eased up to the goal. Bishop gave her the ball and she began throwing it in the general direction of the hoop. After several attempts, she was somewhat exhausted. I tried to help. I demonstrated: elbows in, push under the ball, begin with the ball under your chin. I was thinking of the best coaches I know: Sartor, Sims and Wilson. Eventually she resorted to the granny shot and she did manage to hit the rim a couple of times, Bishop fetching the rebounds.

Meanwhile I struck up a tentative conversation with her father. He said he spoke "only a little English," but we proceeded to talk for half an hour. His English was excellent. I told him what we were doing in Madeira and for how long. He asked what classes I was teaching at University, and as it turns out, he will be a student in one of them. His name is Jaime and his family owns a Residencial next to the market in downtown Funchal. On one of our subsequent walks, we happened in on him and he took a break to walk us to the Language School, where we will begin Portuguese lessons next week.

I asked him about playing basketball on the island, and he said he hasn't played in years (he is 31) but he knows where the gym is. He pointed up and said with a smile that he felt certain that Bishop could find a team to play on. "I will see you play basketball here," he told Bishop. "One day, we are all going to play together."

By now, Bishop and Sara (his daughter) were chasing around and laughing, Bishop mostly dribbling a kind of keep away from her. She walked over to her father and asked him some things in Portuguese; he replied and then she walked over to Bishop and said "Let's know each other." Her father turned to me and said that she now wants to learn English so she can play with Bishop again. It was getting late and as we parted, Jaime asked if we wanted a lift, which we were excited to accept.

Since then, we have been to the basketball court a number of times and had a few family games. Very often some older pedestrians will stop and watch. I don't think they've ever seen anyone use the court so purposefully.

Yesterday, Bishop and I walked straight up, toward heaven, to find the CAB Madeira gym. The road was narrow and at the top it ended in a field. I was miffed. Jaime had said to turn left and you will see it. So, we turned left and walked through the field, which opened onto another street, and there it was:

We went inside and got Bishop signed up. Well, it was more of a verbal agreement. Leaving, I took a picture of the CAB Madeira van and also of the view from the precipice, containing the field we'd crossed to get there.

Bishop has his first practice next Thursday at 6:30. For now, Zelle is content to dominate the family games of 2 on 2. Yes, Farrar is lacing them up on the island! I'm still looking for the old man's league. We'll keep you posted.

G-unit on three; 1-2-3- G-UNIT! Griffin Basketball for life.

Walks in Funchal

2009-02-18T07:44:00.000-08:00

We have walked a lot. Madeira is hilly and beautiful. In any given block, one can find something worth photographing; I suppose in a few more weeks we will grow more accustomed to the surroundings, but for now it is difficult not to ogle at every corner.

These are banana trees that we pass on our walk into town. They are everywhere and the bananas they produce are small and sweet. They cost about one and half euros for a large bunch at the market.

Downtown Funchal is very busy with winding streets and narrow alleyways with tons of cafes, shoe shops (thanks to Farrar we have been to all of these, and some of them, twice), and friendly, well-behaved dogs.

Besides Madeira wine, the other famous export from the island is some very fine embroidery and lace. There are only 4 factories remaining on the island, where there used to be around 80 not so long ago. We stopped in one of the shops and were happy to simply browse. If we were to purchase a table cloth and napkins, we would be out the majority of my stipend. It is extremely beautiful and I suspect Farrar will not leave without something...hopefully much smaller than a table cloth. She could have stayed in this shop for the better part of the afternoon.

By the time we head back home, it is usually getting dark. The walk at dusk is scenic in its own way and we have no problem stopping to take a break here and there.

While we seem to be drawn to the old part of town, we are beginning to be comforted by the quiet and relative calm of our own neighborhood.

We made it to Madeira

2009-02-15T09:27:00.000-08:00

Got in on Valentine's Day around 2 and were met at the airport by Bernardo, my contact at the University. He brought along his daughter and their brand new month old puppy. It was quite the welcoming:

We took a couple of pictures off the veranda at the new apartment and spent the rest of the afternoon unpacking and such.

Later that evening Bernardo returned to show us around the city via car. The next morning (Sunday) we walked into the center of town and saw things more clearly. Lots of amazing views and interesting buildings and parks. The picture below is of one of the three rivers that runs through town to the Atlantic. They have managed to grow a canopy of flowers above it:

We live in Lido, at the western edge of the city, and it takes about 20 minutes on foot to get to the old center of town. Lido is close to the hotel district and is near a couple of swim centers and also has many parks. We found one basketball goal; it had no net, but it will do. We went to the shopping forum, from where I am typing this, and bought the only 28.5 basketball (you know it!) along with some other housewares and the cheapest cell phones they had, so we can stay in touch with one another (and Bernardo) on the island.

A couple of blocks from our flat, there are some great trees, also near the basketball goal. See if you can find Zelle and Bishop.

We are still settling in and finding our way. We hope to have wireless in the flat on Monday or Tuesday, at which point we can check email and all that.

Last day in Lisbon

2009-02-13T14:27:00.000-08:00

We have been struggling to get out of bed before late morning since arriving, but today we had to, as we had an appointment at the Fulbright offices at 10 am, which never seemed so early. Pretty mundane stuff, I suppose, but the kindness of Paula and Otilia in ushering us through the process was much appreciated. I had to get a fiscal number in order to get a bank account in Portugal and were it not for Paula's guidance I would still be standing in line somewhere.

The wait gave us time to chat, for Paula to meet and observe our children, and for us to note the universal nature of public services. It was not unlike experiences I have had at the DMV on Southport Road, except for the company. I really cannot say enough nice things about the Fulbright office in Lisbon and how personable and helpful the people there have been.

After I had gotten into the system, so to speak, we walked in the direction of Pessoa's old neighborhood and ambled into a Pastelaria that was fairly active: lots of laborers on lunch break and older gentlemen and ladies dressed impeccably. Our waitress informed us that she spoke no English (with a smile) and we were doing fine until Farrar accidently ordered a bottle of wine, as opposed to a glass. We have learned to look around the restaurant and point at other customers' dishes that look appetizing. Today, Farrar got something like the workingman's rice dish, which had pretty much everything in it. I had some codfish with something like cabbage and fries (authentic potato chips). Zelle has honed in on the "simple omelette'" and Bishop branched out today with a fruit salad to go along with his 2 baskets of bread and 4 butters. He has learned to say "pao y manteiga" quite convincingly.

After walking home and regrouping, we took the subway to the eastern edge of town, the end of the line, where the site for the '98 expo remains. There was a huge mall there and a very long boardwalk along the banks of the ever-present Tagus River. We went out there with the idea of visiting the aquarium, but along the way Bishop spotted these and we were kinda done for the afternoon.

I had to give up my SC Driver's license to take these for a spin, and we were alternately laughed at and cheered for by the other park visitors. I don't think many adults go for this sort of thing, but it seemed like a fine idea at the time. In retrospect it was exactly what Farrar and I needed to ensure that every muscle in our bodies was sufficiently taxed, in case the many miles of walking had missed any of them.

Exhausted, and needing to pack for the flight to Madeira, we opted for dinner at home, compliments of this very typical market down the street from the hotel.

Thursday in Lisbon

2009-02-12T12:40:00.000-08:00

It has been another sunny day in Lisbon. We are still adjusting to the time difference as well as the freedom to wake up when we wish. I don't know the last time that we have indulged in such for more than a Saturday. Bishop coined it the "know day" which meant that we got to go to at least one place that was the same, so we knew what to expect. Yes, he is definitely my child. Thus, we began the "know day" with breakfast at the same pastelaria as the day before. We dined on eggs and pastries, however, Alex ordered "steak to the house" which was bountiful as well as fun to order. Those of you who know Alex well, know that for the rest of the day, it was "everything to the house."

It became suddenly apparent that we needed a park and a place to play. Our children were hurdling parking posts and causing us great sidewalk anxiety. It was time to have a bit of free reign. We found just the spot; Parque Eduardo VII. There, we had plenty of grass to throw the football(yes, American football...Bishop snuck one in his bag), a park for swinging, relaxing, zip lining, and a fantastic view of Marques Pombal with the Tagus River in the background.

We then headed to Campo de Ourique to see the Casa de Fernando Pessoa about which Alex recently blogged. I must admit that it was pretty neat to see Alex so genuinely fascinated. He was almost giddy, and I am now intrigued to read Pessoa's poems that have graced Alex's bedside table for most of our marriage. A bonus to the destination was the neighborhood. Zelle and I spotted a colorful shop that was owned by a lovely woman who took it upon herself to direct our next hour and fill in just where Ricardo left off. She sent us to the bakery known for the best chocolate cake in the world. It was a tiny, tiny place with a line stretching out the front door. After watching person after person order a slice of this cake, Alex simply had to walk to the counter and hold up two fingers. Easy. It was incredibly delicious.

If I had a culinary bone in my body, I would be able to describe it as there were tastes and textures to that cake that were hauntingly familiar. We all agreed that while it was uniquely scrumptious, Mrs. Reel's chocolate cake is still in the running as world's best. A couple of pieces of cake along with an espresso and we were off to a botanical garden where the highlight was a group of older men playing a raucous game of cards.

By this time, we felt comfortable with a bit of navigation without a map. My heart has ceased temporarily stopping every time we reach a busy street as Bishop and Zelle now understand crowded intersections, very fast cars, crosswalks, and the importance of not taking up the entire sidewalk when traveling. Bishop continues to do his famous high jumps but is pretty good at keeping them contained and not scaring children or elderly people. When he gets really tired, his patient and adoring sister gives him a lift.

To continue with the "know" theme of the day, we ended in a familiar restaurant for dinner, and Bishop lead us to "our" table. While we are genuinely attempting to speak Portuguese, it is undoubtedly comical to those who hear us out. I think not being able to communicate has been much more difficult than I could have imagined. At one point today, I found myself behind a man walking with a cane to help him see. He accidentally got behind a railing leading to the subway and was obviously confused and somewhat panicked. Knowing that my English or horrific Portuguese would only confuse or scare him more, I could not assist him. I don't mean to sound pathetic, but for the first time in my life that I can remember, I couldn't help someone in such a simple situation. Anyway, he managed. Someone else stepped in so the story has a fine ending. The first word we have all mastered is predictably that of obrigado, or thank you, a word that has come in handy in response to the kindness of every person with whom we have been in contact. Much to my delight, I am reminded moment by moment of the universal power of a simple smile. Tomorrow, we are off to the Fulbright Commission for some logistical business and to meet some of the people with whom Alex has been corresponding over the past several months. Then, on to more adventures and hopefully better sidewalk behavior from you know who. I am quite grateful already for this experience.

Fernando Pessoa

2009-02-12T10:24:00.000-08:00

One of the main things that attracted me to applying for a Fulbright in Portugal was the poetry of Fernando Pessoa. He is arguably the greatest poet of the 20th century writing in any language. He happened to write in Portuguese and English and he developed a series of heteronyms (other names) under which he composed and published. He gave entirely distinct personalities, biographies and writing styles to these "other names" and began experimenting with them at the age of 6, in the form of imaginary friends.

In the past two days, we have been able to visit his tomb (at the Monastery in Belem)...

and his house in the very eclectic and lively neighborhood of Campo de Ourique. I am rarely awestruck by such museum experiences, but seeing Pessoa's bedroom and some of his personal belongings, particularly his typewriter and journals, gave me goosebumps.

It also provided a perfect opportunity to show Bishop and Zelle that journaling is not a place to pursue perfection, but rather to seek imaginative play with language and sketches. Pessoa's presence is not hard to find in Lisbon. He is a true literary hero and national treasure; we saw this statue walking between the Torre de Belem and the Berardo Museum...

first full day in Lisbon

2009-02-11T14:29:00.000-08:00

After sleeping in a bit, we began with a hearty breakfast of bread and butter, eggs, pastries and espresso. Farrar was happy. Then, again under the sage advice of Ricardo, we ventured to Belem, by way of the metro and the tram.

It was an exciting way to travel, and our efforts were rewarded when we got to Belem. The first stop was the Mosteiro Dos Jeronimos, a monastery built in the early 1500s. It was remarkably peaceful and a nice place to take some pictures:

This was the fountain in the courtyard in the center of the monastery. Bishop said it would be a good place to throw the football.

Farrar was particularly taken with this school group organizing themselves in a circle to play a game. As a 5th grade teacher, she prefers to exist with her students in a circle whenever possible. This photo is for her 5th grade Griffins back home.

This is the sanctuary....500 years old. No way to reproduce that with a little snap, but here it is. It put us in the mind of Sewanee, which is a fine mind to be put into, but nothing else I have ever seen even begins to approach its magnificence. We lingered.

Farrar was also taken with these little confessional nooks that lined the square of the courtyard. We saw a custodian pull a mop and other cleaning supplies from one of them, and we noted the practical impulse to keep using the space for something.

Then we went to the Pasteis de Belem, a pastry shop founded in 1837 for "the best cookies in the world" according to Ricardo, who by the way is going to Austria tomorrow, so we have no idea what we will do next.

This place was pretty cool; we got our treat to go, a six-pack, and ate them on the street. They were more like little custard filled pies and they were delicious. Zelle put one away and Bishop ate the crust of his then passed it to me(Alex). I was happy to complete the job. I think I had 4...but whose counting?

Then we grabbed some coffee to go and headed to the Torre de Belem, a tower built in the 1400s that sits in the brackish waters near the mouth of the Tagus River.

It was 119 steps to the top (thanks Zelle) and the views were pretty amazing.

...even if Farrar weren't in the picture. The tower came with a park in front of it that had lots of climbing trees and plenty of green grass for soccer, er, futbol.

Next, we walked to the Berardo Museum, part of the Cultural Center of Belem, which contained modern and contemporary art and a particularly interesting collection from Joaquin Torres-Gracia. It was a free museum and despite the general fatigue, we took it all in before heading back, via tram, to catch the metro back to our hotel's neighborhood.

While waiting on the correct tram, Bishop impatiently suggested that we simply "get on that one" and I suppose go wherever. We waited instead and got on the correct tram, but we got off one stop too soon, so got to walk and additional 1,000 meters or so to the metro. Nice work, Dad.

Then it was easy. Took the blue line back to Pombal and scooted up to the street where we were very hungry and only a couple of blocks from the hotel. The only problem is the way we got out of the metro was not the way we got in, so when we emerged onto the circle of Pombal, we were a bit confused. We walked in circles for an additional 30 minutes until we found our way, a hotel where I had asked for directions earlier. We have been preaching to the kids to take it all in, to soak up the scenery, and Zelle said we got to soak up the same scenery for half an hour.

After that, we enjoyed dinner (and some Portuguese futbol on the tube) around the corner from the hotel. Like everything else we have tasted, it was delicious.

Boa noite.

2009-02-10T11:46:00.000-08:00

We left Monday evening around 8:00. We made it, though we are all happy to be free from the spooky environs of airports, and the pulse of life they provide. Everyone napped a bit on the flight from Charlotte to Frankfurt, but I knew it would be a long haul when I opened my eyes at 3:30 a.m. to find Farrar glued to Mama Mia. I settled on back to back episodes of Flight of the Conchords and drifted in and out till the next morning. Zelle and Bishop watched High School Musical 14, or whatever the number. No one got too sick.

The flight to Lisbon was much more relaxed and comfortable: more space and better naps. A fast cab ride carried us to our hotel, and we mostly sat in silence, Farrar and I thinking we should've spent more time learning the language. We managed to communicate a few essentials: the location of the main Avenida and the Tagus River in relation to the hotel. We knew enough to say "obrigado" and drag ourselves into our room.

We took a stroll through the immediate area and ate at Delfim, upon the recommendation of Ricardo from the hotel. Good call, Ricardo. I still don't know why we staggered around for half an hour wondering where to eat, what to do, but I suspect it had to do with the lack of sleep and nutrition. We probably asked half a dozen more people to suggest a dinner spot, and among them I'll bet they knew enough English to compose a solid sentence or two. It was all very refreshing, if unhelpful. We were a bit early to Delfim, so had the undivided attention of the proprietor. Everything was quite delicious and our walk back to the hotel, through the night, was much more lively.

Delfim made it easy to embrace the local cuisine, even for Bishop, who has enjoyed two ice creams, the rough equivalent of a loaf of bread, with plenty of butter, and a pineapple in his first 6 hours in Portugal. And as he pointed out, he also had "some of an egg" so he should be good to go.

After dinner the owner taught us some words and poured us a small shot of a "sugar liquor" before we headed home for an early night. Oh yeah, lots of pastry shops in the neighborhood, so add that to the diet of champions, first thing in the morning.

one week to go

2009-02-02T08:35:00.001-08:00

We are one week away from departure and suitably nervy. Lots of loose ends...